Back to my roots: St. Augustine FL

If you have been following our adventures you might ask, “What happened? You were in Cooperstown NY and then made a hasty retreat back to Florida.” I could say that Billy was missing the salt air and heat but truth is my mother became quite ill. Needless to say, we canceled our plans and boogied back south.

Sea oats on the sand dunes
Dawn at Anastasia State Park

Did you know that every cloud has a silver lining? It is true. We needed a home in St. Augustine for the next 2-3 months and Anastasia State Park needed a volunteer team to fill a cancellation. Being previous volunteers at the park this was a good situation for all involved.

American Egret and Wood Stork
typical park residents

We arrived to find we already knew 50% of the volunteer staff. As a volunteer, you quickly learn there are some teams that volunteer most of the year at various parks. Summer is often when the Florida State Parks struggle to find volunteers, fortunately there are actually Florida residents who like the summer heat and volunteer year round. It seems you rarely find a snow-bird volunteers working a season other than winter months... but that is another story.

Home Sweet Home

It always helps when you know the job, and have worked with many of the rangers, staff, and volunteers.  You can get your home settled, say 'Hello', learn what has changed, pick-up the keys and get started.

Billy cleaning camp sites
(Marg taking the photo)

Heading South: Colleton State Park, South Carolina

Edisto River at Colleton State Park
the longest Black Water River in North America -250 miles

Colleton State Park, one of the original wayside parks built in the 1930s by the CCC boys.  Ah, you know the Civilian Conservation Corp.  Their work is fascinating but that will require a separate post.  

Proudly displayed
on the CCC built cabin

CCC built cabin
well preserved and still operational

The park is near I-95 which makes it ideal for an overnight stop but if you stop overnight this section of the Edisto River is left unexplored.  As it happens the Edisto River is the longest Black Water river in North America at 250 miles and there is a nice 21 mile paddle from Colleton SP to Givhans Ferry SP.  Unfortunately, we were on a mission 'return to Florida' and could not spare the day for a canoe trip.  With the park ranger helpful details about the river route, put-in and take-out points, and tips we added this part of the Edisto River to our 'paddle list'.  

The delightful nature trail

This was not my first visit or overnight at Colleton, many years ago it was a car-camp location when traveling I-95.  The river was the same but the park was greatly improved over the years with a spacious and welcoming campground, a camp store, an official nature trail, and several short trails.  

Current campground
much improved from the 1980s

 The entire area is know as lowcountry which implies the South Carolina coastal area once known for it's agricultural prowess and later for the abundant fresh sea food and shell fish.  These days it is better know for the draping Spanish moss, heritage homes, and small towns that time has left untouched.  The days are lazy and the scenery memorable.   Think I will plan an early spring paddle on the Edisto River!

A lazy river for paddling or tubing

Mountain Adventures: Returning through Hillsville VA

It seems we keep finding ourselves in Hillsville VA which is not a bad place to be.  And, we all have to be somewhere.  If you tracked the posting titles you might notice we went as far north as Cooperstown NY and then headed back south over the July 4th weekend.  Being a savvy traveler the question could be "Are they crazy?"  Truth is, yes we are.  However, this time we were called back to Florida and selected the route that would be the fastest, having the fewest traffic incidents, and offering power packed stops.

The first Saturday jam
in Galax VA

From the campground, Matthew's Carrollwood, it is a short ride into Galax VA where you might encounter an old-time jam.  We didn't exactly happen into the jam as our camping neighbor and friend "Billy" shared this would be the first Saturday jam.

Our friend Billy far right, in yellow.
Bill below on far left, in orange.

From there we headed up to the Blue Ridge Music Center which celebrates the music, history, and musicians of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  The center houses an interactive history lesson with beautiful displays and actual musical instruments.  Most days there is a free mid-day concert featuring traditional music performed by local musicians.  

Summer wild-flowers
Blue Ridge Music Center

The Blue Ridge Parkway straddles Virginia and North Carolina in this area so expect to find heritage music from both states.  Really, does music know there is a legal boundary?  My experience says music drifts and adapts thus you will find tunes that are almost identical with different names and many variants of one tune.  The music was passed on through oral tradition and our ears do not always catch each note, phrase, or word correctly.  Thus we have variants of the same tune.  
Surrounding the Blue Ridge Music Center one finds many variations of the ancient fiddle and banjo music of Virginia and North Carolina. This music can be traced to the meeting of the African banjo and the European fiddle in the Tidewater before our nation was created. Here also are found older ballads and religious music that reach deeply into the American past. http://www.blueridgemusiccenter.org/museum.htm

Billy on the High Meadow Trail

There are multiple hiking trails along the parkway and including two trails at the Nature Center a 2.2 loop and a 1.35 one-way trail.  There is a promise of Catawba rhododendron displays in May along with summer wild-flowers.  To my delight, the Catawba rhododendron were still around on July 5th!  Another special treat.

Catawba Rhododendron in full display
at the Blue Ridge Music Center

As luck would have it, this Saturday is a Summer Evening Concert. It will be a popular concert so people arrived early, 5:30ish, and by 6 PM the grassy amphitheater area was beginning to fill for the 7 PM show.

Getting set for the evening show

And the show was more than worth the ticket price.  There were two bands the Mountain Park Old Time Band (North Carolina) and the New Ballard's Branch Bogtrotters (Virginia).  It was easy to hear the contrast in styles from each side of the mountain.  For these bands, the Mountain Park emphasized the banjo with fiddle support which was the reverse with the Bogtrotters.  Both groups are dance bands and in this area it means clogging or square dancing with an occasional waltz.  Tonight was clogging with the occasional waltz.

Finale with both bands...
 and all dancers on the floor

Sunday morning as we headed down I-77 towards home I reflected on our last stop in the mountains with the music that speaks to both Bill and me.  It was a fitting cap on a wonderful month of music, hiking, and friends.  

Great hike, great jam, great concert!
Ready for the next trip!

Yuengling Brewery Tour, Pottsville PA

Reading the PA map as we whizzed along I-81 my eyes landed on Pottsville which set me to thinking... isn't this the home of the Yuengling Brewery?  Tours are given at 10:00 AM and 1:30 PM, hmm it is now 3:00 PM so we missed the tours not to mention the heavy rain so we drive on. Shortly past to the exit to Pottsville we cross over the mountain, the rain stops, and we find the Echo Valley Campground. 

Yuengling, Bill's favorite brewery

The next day we drop the trailer (off the truck) and drive the "short" 14 miles to Pottsville.  Now I say short as once you leave the Interstate the roads are all curvy up and down the mountains.  The drive is memorable as you wind through farms with planted fields, dairies with ample cows, fields of baled hay, forests, cross roads, and small stores. Eventually we arrive in Pottsville and locate the brewery.

Brewery loading dock
Note everything is downhill from here

The tour is a trip through the history of Yuengling, Pottsville, and US beer making.  Walking through the cramped rooms, caves, and bottling facility is a living history journey and our tour guide pulled out all the stops.  An in-person tour is the best but baring that you can take the online tour at their website.

The barrel filler took a crew
to fill 4 barrels at a time.
These days it is automated.

David Yuengling started the Eagle Brewing Company in 1829 after immigrating from Germany.  In 1831 the wooden structure burned and David moved the brewery up the hill where he could dig caves into the mountain side for temperature control.  Another reason for this location was access to water from a free flowing spring.  

Caves
Closed in 1919, prohibition
Reopened in 2004

The brewery was renamed to Yuengling in 1837 when Frederick joined his father, David, in the business.  Now don't think the family gets a free ride, each new owner must purchase the business from the current owner.  The next generation of Yuenglings are women, four, who currently work in the business.  It will be interesting to see how they finance their purchase as the current owner, Dick, has greatly expanded the business and value.

Copper door from the original cooking vats.
Today all but one tank are stainless steel due
to the intense cleaning required after each brew cycle.

About prohibition, the 18th Amendment, which in my opinion was a horrid law.  It was in effect from 1919-1933, to survive Yuengling made near beer, medicinal tonics, and ice cream.  Yes you can still purchase Yuengling ice cream, the business closed in 1985 but reopened in 2014 by a cousin.

Bottling section of the brewery

After touring the cooking room with the stained glass ceiling which acts as a huge sunglasses, we proceed to the bottling facility.  Then finally to the tasting room for samples of those brews that never leave Pottsville. 

Pennsylvania Mountains: Echo Valley Campground

So, here we are on July 2nd heading back to Florida, cruising down I-81 through a horrid rain storm.  Earlier in the morning we left Cooperstown NY with a sketchy plan but knowing we are still ahead of the July 4th camping crowd.

Leaving Lake Otsego and New York

As we pass the exit to Pottsville PA, home of the Yuengling Brewery, it was hard to hold the truck on I-81 as the truck does stop for Yuengling.  However, a bit of coaxing kept it on the highway, especially as we miss the daily tours.  To get even, the rain stopped when we crossed the mountain (Pottsville side) and there were signs to the Echo Valley Campground in Tremont, PA.

Classic sign form the 1960s
Seen any lately?

Echo Valley offers several services: long term, seasonal, short-term, overnight, cabins, and a huge swimming pool.  

Black Creek
Runs through the property

The campground has a long history. 
Around 1857 a bridge was built do cross the Black Creek, see below.  It appears last winter was hard on the bridge as it is currently closed to vehicle traffic.  But what a treat to walk across this bridge.

1857 bridge

In 1902 Echo Valley Park opened for day use with swimming in the creek and natural pool.  Swimming must have been popular as 1927 was the construction of a swimming pool.  New owners arrived around 1940 and added a campground.  Now the husband loved the Pennsylvania Mountains and the wife loved the Seashore.  The solution?  Make it nautical.  They expanded the pool, added a 'boat house' as a snack shop and changing house adjacent to the pool, and build a light house.

Lighthouse in the Mountains!
The couple's compromise

The current owner, Ms Finch, purchased a run-down campground in 1998 and was determined to make a go of it.  She was tired of the corporate engineering world and needed a new direction.  Perhaps she did not bargain for such a challenge but she has made great strides and once again returned the park to a beautiful and desirous camping location.  Her personality doesn't hurt either as she opens the office door with a smile and sells you on the wonderful attractions in the area.

Yes, we stayed two days and did make the Yuengling tour.

Glimmerglass State Park, Cooperstown NY

For this trip Glimmerglass State Park was our furthest point north and a wonderful park to cap the June adventures.  As the saying goes, "Life happens while you are making other plans."  Our plans were an extended trip but Life was a family issue that demanded attention in Florida.   Not a problem as life is an adventure and we can enjoy each day as it unfolds.

Glimmer Glass - Lake Otsego

The name Glimmerglass implied sparkling and shining something but what?  When you look at Lake Otsego you understand Glimmerglass.  The lake sparkles under the blue sky and reflects the forest covered slopes. A bit of reading informs the visitor James Fenmore Cooper dubbed the lake Glimmerglass.  This 600 acre park rolls across the hills which were once part of the 120,000 acre estate accumulated by George Clarke around 1800.   

Now don't fret, there were several generations of George Clarke's.  Some were good stewards of the land and one that left it in disrepair.  After the neglectful George Clarke went bankrupt, George's son (yes, George) purchased the land at auction and restored the family property to the former grandeur.  You can tour the house, grounds, and museum which is on the park property and called Hyde Hall. 

There are several miles of trails in the park and we opted to bicycle these wide and inviting trails.  The route rambled up mountain side through forests, past the Hyde House, and descended to ponds and streams.  

An unexpected treat was viewing the oldest covered bridge in the USA.  As you can guess this was also underwritten by George Clarke for use on his estate.  It was built in 1824 by Cyrenus Clark (1772-after 1856), Andrew Alden (1785-1853), and Lorenzo Bates (1786-1859).

Looking up at the roof

Though no longer open to foot traffic,
it is an amazing structure

When in Rome, do as the Romans... drive the 8 miles into Cooperstown.  You know Cooperstown NY, the Baseball Hall of Fame.  As with many aging former resort towns a hook is needed to draw visitors and the Baseball Hall of Fame does it.  Each shop, restaurant, and lamppost proudly displays baseball logos, menu items, and posters.  The houses reveal a wealth Victorian past for this resort town.  And people still come for the ambiance and Baseball. 

A hotel that beckons you to stay the night

Still Lake Otsego is the dominant figure in the area.  It is a large lake that sparkles as it provides nutrition, livelihood, and recreation.

Glimmerglass dominates the area

Take the time to visit the area, you will not be disappointed.

Mountain Music: Old Songs Festival, Atlamont NY

Saturday night concert

For years friends have recommended we experience Old Songs.  Old Songs is in New York so why not put it on our travel route.  A study of the website (http://festival.oldsongs.org/) revealed most of the performers were unknown to us but a few names we recognized.  Perfect!  I want to be inspired by new to me groups.

Are we there yet?

The festival is held at the Altamont Fair Grounds, now this is an amazing fair grounds with old working barns, stalls, and buildings.  How old?  Lets say most of the buildings pre-date 1950 and many back to the late 1800s.  From the fair grounds you can walk a short two blocks downtown or through well manicured Victorian homes of the Village of Altamont

One of the many stalls and barns

We had options... attend the festival by purchasing a ticket or work the festival as volunteers.  You guessed it, we volunteered.  The website listed the team leaders so I contacted them and fortunately Allison had openings on the Stage Manager crew.  What luck, we provided performer assistance, the important 5-minute call, and crowd control.  Allison asked our workshop preferences and did her best to honor those requests.  My biggest problem was deciding which workshops.

Typical festival camping

The festival is organized into 1-1.25 workshops and performances for a total of 120 slots over 2.5 days.  Consider, every hour you move to another  barn or tent to experience music with a different focus. 

Dutch Barn and out building

 One memorable hour was a musical called Old Silver Leg.  The performance related the history of the Dutch in New York and was both entertaining and educational.  Yes, this is one I will long remember.  

Moving between workshop sessions
sessions are held in the barns

The harper in me was happy to work several  performances by Marie Ni Chathassaigh and Chris Newman.  Marie has made her mark in the world of Irish harp and with Chris (guitar) they have expanded far.  To be honest, I hoped to snag a few tips and tricks for Bill and I.

Other high points include a fiddle workshop by George Wilson, Body Percussion by Muteo, the ever evolving Old-Time panel demonstration, and so much more...

Main stage
day and night performances

Each night is a concert featuring the best artists.  How wonderful to sit under the trees as the sun sets in the mountains and the music flows in the twilight.

Monday morning clean-up

Now what are the chances of encountering folkies you know so far from home?  Slim?  But not impossible.  Our buddies Phil and Brenda were there with Phil's Grill, his mobile gourmet kitchen.  The last time we spent time with them was at the Florida Folk Festival.  Then the banjo player sitting next to me in a jam who we met at the Early American Banjo Conference.  Next year we will have a wide circle of friends at the festival!

Lovely grounds for a festival

Early American Banjo Concert, Antietam MD

Banjo accompanied by the Jawbone
and of course with song!

What a fun afternoon with a trip through the towns and a visit to the Prye House Field Hospital Museum.  It was an experiential history lesson capped by the Early American Banjo Concert.  Yes, banjos can be in concert.

Prye House
with a troubled history
after the Civil War

A little background: This museum is located in the historic Pry House on the Antietam Battlefield, which served both as Union Commander General George B. McClellan’s headquarters and as Medical Director Dr. Jonathan Letterman’s headquarters during the battle.  Exhibits include a re-creation of an operating theater, interpretive panels, objects relating to the care of the wounded, the history of the Pry House and family, and information on the revolutionary system of evacuation of wounded created by Dr. Letterman during the battle, which is still in use today. (http://www.civilwarmed.org/pry-house-field-hospital-museum/about-the-pry-house/)

Joel in early 1900s attire
Note the classical style

 This was the 7th Annual Early American Banjo Conference with discussions, presentations, tutorials, demonstrations, and time for a bit of music. The importance of the conference is that it "raises awareness of the early banjo’s significance in the development of American popular culture and underscores music’s importance in the lives of Civil War Americans." http://www.civilwarmed.org/ai1ec_event/antietam-early-american-banjo-gathering-vii/?instance_id=

Tambourine and Fretless Civil War era Banjo
Both built by Dan (banjo)

And, yes a tour through the Pry House, spending time on the grounds, and attending the concert in the barn at the Pry House gives you a feel for Civil War era banjo and the importance.

Minstrel Banjo Duet
Minstrel postdates the Civil War

Our good friend Tony Thomas, who is quite a banjo expert, invited his friends to attend the concert.  Lo and behold!  When I checked our tour schedule... well, we were less than 25 miles from the event.  We planned the day around the concert and the history tour and were not disappointed.

Gourd banjo and singer