Adventures around Jacksonville FL: Hanna Park

In mid-November we opted to help our friend Phil at the Jacksonville Celtic Festival, November 22-23. This adventure provided the perfect opportunity to stay in Hanna Park, renowned for the beach, lake, and off-road bicycling. Count us in!

Boardwalk to the Beach at Hanna Park

Work was slow at our volunteer job at Stephen Foster Folk Cultural Center State Park and once our morning duties were complete it was time to roll. A call to the park confirmed there were vacant camp sites for the night facilitating a 4-day get away. Once packed we headed east on I-10, through downtown Jacksonville, and to the beach.

Let's ride those trails!

The 450 acre park has a long history. In the last century it was known as Manhattan beach and frequented by African Americans or should I say they were restricted to this beach. The beach was popular and the crowds supported businesses offering lodging, dining, and bars. (Wikipedia reference). Around 1940, land was donated for a park to be named for Kathryn Abbey Hanna, a dedicated educator and author. The park was finally developed when Jacksonville annexed the entire county. (Summary from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanna_Park)

Sea oats on the Dunes
Ships and Jacksonville Beach on the horizon

The park offers well shaded campsites with sufficient woods to give privacy to most of the 300 sites. The sites have been updated with water, electric, and sewer service. Unfortunately this cannot be said for the support structures, the bath houses and meeting rooms would benefit from a remodel. Some sites are adjacent to the lake and the remaining are a short walk or bicycle ride to the lake. The roar of the ocean fills the park beckoning you to steal away for a beach walk.

Wooded campsite
Ready to ride the trails

Don't forget the lake for a canoe trip,fishing, or a fresh water swim. Being November, rainy, and overcast, and cool we saved the water activities for the next trip. However, the cats enjoyed walking the trails from our campsite to the lake, especially late in the evening when the area was quite. Another favorite cat walk time is early morning, say 5-6 AM, but this trip we kept late hours so the early morning walks were limited.

One view of the 60 acre lake
from the trails...

Off-road bicycling is a huge draw for this park. There are interlocking trails of moderate to difficult rating. The trails wind through the woods, around the lake, and along the ocean but don't expect views as the trails are nestled in the hammocks filled with pines, oaks, and hickory. It is wise to start on an easier trail to acclimate your bicycling skills to the sand, roots, dips, and hills. Trails are one way and alternate direction each day. The trails intersect so you can construct a ride from .2 miles to 20 miles (or so).

Wonderful trails for
bicycling and hiking

The 1.5-2 miles of beach lie between the Mayport Naval Station and Jacksonville Beach. The boundary to the Naval Station is known as the 'Poles' and easy to recognize by the poles in the ocean and fence in the dunes. 

The "Poles" where the park meets
Mayport Naval Station
Legend has the surfing is good at the Poles

On the southern boundary the end of the park is heralded by the high-rise dwellings above the dune line. For some reason, the tide was always high when I visited the beach, and probably higher than normal due to the winter storm. Thus the soft sand extended to the water-line which was dotted with seaweed, shells, sea-glass, and driftwood. The beach seemed remarkably clean considering it fronted a major inlet and the open ocean. Monday while walking the beach I discovered the reason, a park truck bearing trash bags and collectors.  

Trail to the beach

Having explored several of the trails, the beach and lake, touring the park by bicycle, and meeting the staff, we left with a desire to return when we have more time to explore the park.

Canoeing the Suwannee River: Stephen Foster State Park to Hwy 41

Finally, we arrived at Steven Foster Folk Cultural Center State Park when the Suwannee River was navigable.  Being a balmy November day we launched the canoe from the state park and headed up the river towards Hwy 41, both points being at White Springs.

No canoe?
Rent one from the park

The river level just shy of 52 feet was perfect for the trip... not too low, not too high.  Too low and the snags and downed trees result in blocked passage.  Too high and the river is running fast, too fast for a safe paddle.  When in doubt of the level, you can always check the real-time river level chart provided by the Suwannee River Water Management District.

Plenty of shore line right now

There is an organized trail, Suwannee River Wilderness Trail, with a system of river camps for overnight stops while traveling the 69 miles from White Springs to the Gulf or Mexico.  True, we paddled a short distance up and down the same section of the river but we experienced so much nature in those short 6 miles that I am ready for more.

Cypress trees line the banks

Along the white sandy banks you encounter outcroppings of sandstone, stone ledges, and enough water dripping from the rocks that you quickly recall those small waterfalls associated with mountain travel.  Who thought you would find water dripping from the banks along the Suwannee?

By studying the water, the springs that feed the river become obvious.  As you paddle along, you will see bubbles and swirls from beneath the surface for no specific reason... ah, a spring fed river.  As the river level is down just a bit, the Spring House in White Springs empties with a loud constant rush almost as a small dam.  Further up river you may encounter several springs spilling out of the banks and into the river.  There are over 300 documented springs on the river.

Springs bubble up in unexpected places

Not all the show is water, even in mid-November you may observe an alligator basking in the sun, a line of turtles grabbing a little fall warmth on a downed log, or a snake near the bank.  Speaking of snakes, a real treat was observing a red shouldered hawk winging her way home with a rather large indigo snake.  In the quiet of the river we heard migrating birds and the call of a barred owl.

Color abounds along the shoreline

Now, many of my friends head north for the fall color but the vegetation along the Suwannee paint a beautiful fall portrait.  The picture is complete as the blue sky, black river, and tall white banks are complimented with red maples, green and gold cedar, green oaks, red and yellow vines, and splashes of Spanish moss and dark green pines.  What more can you ask for a mid-November paddle?

Fall on the Suwannee

Guana – Tolomato – Matanzas National Estuary

A cool front passed through north Florida on October 3-4 which left us with one gorgeous weekend. And, we had the weekend free!

Clear perfect day to explore
Nature at Guana

Saturday morning was spent at the Farmer's Market playing in the string band jam and the urge to explore outside the park. So, Sunday we donned the hiking boots, packed the bicycles and binoculars in the truck, and headed to Guana.  The current official name is Guana Tolomato Matanzas National Estuarine Research Reserve (GTM Research Reserve). 

Cycling on the multi-use trail

The entire preserve encompasses 73,352 acres and occupies certain coastal areas from south of the City of Jacksonville (Duval County) south through St. Johns County and Flagler County.  The area we chose to explore is sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and the North River along highway A1A mid-way between Vilano Beach and Ponte Vedra.  In my youth we called it "The Guanas". 

North River

 This once isolated and little used area became popular after A1A was built along the coast with smaller residences being built at Vilano and exclusive homes built at Ponte Vedra. Luckily the area was preserved for us as the state and US government acquired tracts of land.

An amazing area
Florida & US shared management

There are historical, recreational, and natural reasons to preserve the area. The area preserves endangered species: 48 animals and 8 plants. And, it is a spawning ground for the North American Right Whale in addition to sea turtles, crabs, and fish.

From:
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gtm/education/center.htm

A learning center has been built on the south end of the park to accommodate park visitors, k-12 school educational outings, and university research.  Additionally, the western section has slowly developed into well-marked trails, board walks, and an observation tower.

Boardwalk through the marsh

To think this all started with native American trails, and old logging and hunting roads.  Natives began to use the area 4000-6000 years ago taking advantage of the inlets and streams for fishing, hunting, and trapping.  The island was temperate thus plots were planted for gardens.  

Consider who inhabited this area

In the mid-1700 the British acquired Florida and issued 35 land grants for agricultural endeavors which resulted in livestock, including pigs and hogs, inhabitating the island.  When the British left some Minorcans purchased plots for farms and homesteads.  And in the Florida Land Grab of the 1920s it became a real estate mecca which crashed in 1929.  Eventually the State of Florida acquired the land and the remaining trails and roads have been improved for our use today. (http://myfwc.com/viewing/recreation/wmas/lead/guana-river/history/)

Bill studies trail map

While hiking or bicycling the trails you may encounter the native pigs which have survived from the Spanish inhabitants in 1565-1845. Less friendly are the wild boars which later entered the picture. 

Interesting Fungi

 There are deer that shyly roam the area along with red-shouldered hawks, osprey, wading birds, pileated woodpeckers, downy woodpeckers, among other song birds.

Deer observing the park patrons

My childhood memories of the area include crabbing in the Guana Lake for blue crab. The perfect crab bait, for us, were chicken necks and wings which were safely stored in the freezer awaiting the next Saturday crabbing trip. My father would load the car with traps, hand-lines, chairs, and the all important bait. My grandmother would pack a lunch and drinks into the picnic basket. Then we would make the long 20 mile trip to Guana for crabs.   

Guana Lake
Still popular for crabbing and fishing

Catching up OR What happened to the last four months?

We have the good fortune to spend the four months at Anastasia State Park as resident volunteers. We arrived at the park on July 7 and remained there until November 1.

To be honest, there were many memorable experiences during that time but many were of a personal nature and might not be of interest to my readers. Another factor is I am a St. Augustine native and spent much of my life within 2 miles of the park so my perspective may be a bit different.  Lastly, we were been quite busy with family matters when not volunteering at the park.  So, rather than elaborate on each activity I opted to catch-up.

Dawn at the beach

So, what are these activities?

Moving my mother from an Independent Living situation at Allegro to an Assisted Living facility, the Pavilion at Bayview. The move was necessitated as a result of mother's strokes in late June. As you can imagine this was complicated but accomplished in three weeks so she could leave the rehabilitation center and move directly to her new residence. The staff at all facilities are excellent and have been perfect for each time of her life.

Mother Margie at the Rehab Center

I must thank Paula, my cousin, and Billy for their constant support and assistance with my mother's care. Nor, I cannot forget our fellow volunteer, Chuck, and my cousin, Ben, who assisted on moving day.

Rescuing a kitten that followed a couple and their large dog through the back gate of Anastasia State Park. We were not in the market for another cat... no way! The couple she was following said it was NOT their cat. So Billy scooped it up, gave it some food, and we left it outside for two days. The kitten slept on our cooler and hung around during the day. A nice lady from the surrounding neighborhood brought us a kitten carrier and informed us all shelters would reopen on Tuesday as this was Labor Day weekend. OK, Tuesday came and went... as did each following day and the kitten stayed with us. Our 7 year old cat was getting used to her and Billy named her Anna. Yes, she is still with us and now a member of the family. OK, read my words... “No more pets!”

Anna in the new trailer

Volunteer Job: Park Maintenance. This was covered in another article but to recap... we generally work three days-on and three days-off. Our job at Anastasia is cleaning a camping loop which involves litter patrol, bathhouse checks and cleaning, camp site cleaning, trimming errant shrubs and broken branches, and whatever else is required to keep the camping loop in top shape. This is a fun job, or at lease we find it satisfying.

Billy cleaning litter on the camping loop

Volunteer Job: Event Staff. One weekend in September we journeyed to Stephen Foster CulturalCenter State Park in White Springs for a special assignment. 

The event was the Old-Time Music Weekend.  Now we attended in the past as students and on one occasion Bill helped with the sound system.  This time we attended as volunteers where our main jobs were Bill handling the sound for the evening concerts and I covering the merchandise sales. This left us with time for helping in the kitchen, answering questions, room setup, and sitting in on jams and a few classes. It was a fun and busy weekend.

Photo from the camp FB page

Non-work activities: Staying in a state park is heaven for the outdoors enthusiast.  At Anastasia we spend much of our free time going to the beach, fishing, canoeing, bicycling, visiting with friends, playing music, sitting by the campfire. So, I won't bore you with the details as it would be like the old home movies of summer vacation which few people wanted to watch.

Aside...Home Movies: Are you old enough to be subjected to those evenings? Each vacation was documented on slides or 8 mm tape. After the film was developed an evening 'show' would be scheduled and everyone would gather in the living room to view the trip... friends, family, neighbors, strangers without other plans. Today's version is a phone capture that is uploaded to YouTube so the world can enjoy your activities. Either way, these are best viewed by the one who captured the video or lived the experience.

Hope this filled you in on our activities.  Should you feel you would like more details, then send me a note or post a comment.