Exploring Hontoon Island

A huge oak on the island

There are so many adventures to be had in Florida and one needs only look to the nearest park. Years ago I hiked the 3 mile 'nature trail' at Hontoon Island State Park with my father. It was the fall, just after a north-easter and the ground was littered with air plants. As we hiked to the Indian midden at the end of the park we encountered various birds and mammals but the best was a perfect pigmy rattler curled on a maple leaf. With such fond memories a return visit was mandatory.

Nature Trail to the Indian Midden

Hontoon Island is just west of DeLand but in the St. Johns River so access is by a state park ferry or boat. We wanted to canoe the 3.5 miles from Blue Springs State Park to the island but at 30 mph the wind was too high for a safe or enjoyable paddle. Thus we opted to ride the ferry and bring our bicycles along for the adventure.

Tall pines along the roads

Taking the bicycles was a brilliant idea as the park contains many miles of service roads in addition to the 3 mile 'nature trail' which is limited to foot traffic. As with much of the state, there are dry areas and wet areas due to muck, a low water table, recent rains, and tidal action. Tidal action on the St. Johns River? Yes, the river mouth opens to the Atlantic Ocean which effects the northern end; however, the river is so broad that the moon phase and tributaries have subtler effects.

Swampy area near the midden

The island was probably first inhabited by Timucuan Indians as evidenced by the huge shell mound at the south-western corner of the island. The mound is primarily snail shells harvested over 2000 years ago and probably from the Hontoon Dead River. 

Snail Shells that comprise the midden

You know the mound is old when you stand beneath the huge oak tree which crowns the midden. Access to the mound is only by the nature trail; however, you can explore the island on bicycle, park your steed, and hike the trail from one of several connecting roads.

Bill by the huge oak

Later the island served as a home for local pioneers and entrepreneurs who used the island for fishing, trapping, cattle ranching, and personal food production. In later years it served as a boat yard and center for commercial fishing.

View of the St. Johns River
Cypress knees on the bank

Now, if you are relatively quiet you should encounter deer, armadillo, squirrel, wading birds, woodpeckers, and song birds. I'm certain there are more animals and birds but these were the ones that made an appearance on this trip.

Armadillo foraging through the brush

Step off the mainland and take a ferry ride to Hontoon Island where you can fish, hike, bicycle, and even stay overnight in a cabin, tent, or dock your boat.

Huge Oak on the midden

Manatees, Manatees, and More Manatees: Blue Spring State Park

It was a windy afternoon when we arrived at Blue Spring State Park and checked into the campground. Once settled we decided to explore the park, walk a few trails, and find the canoe launch. So, off we went towards the spring which is a short walk from the campground.

Blue Spring - afternoon
Look for the manatee below the surface

Blue Spring is a first magnitude spring bubbling more than 104 million gallons a day from the Florida Aquifer into the St. Johns River. With a consistent water temperature of 72 degrees the spring becomes a wonderful swimming hole – refreshing in the summer and invigorating in the winter. However, you can rarely swim in the winter as the spring is inundated with manatee! Approximately 200 manatee call Blue Spring home in the winter where they can stay warm, darn snow birds.

Blue Spring and Manatee
early morning, a chilly one at that!

Speaking of snow birds, there is a constant flow of visitors along the boardwalk to view the manatee and most are winter residents from the snowy lands. The boardwalk fronts the entire length of the spring run from the head spring to the St.Johns River.

A quiet moment on the boardwalk which
carries hundreds of visitors each day through
the marshy area to the head springs

Far up the spring the area is crystal clear and a deep blue with tinges of green from algae and vegetation. Now as the water leaves the spring there is little oxygen and nothing for fish to eat.  But with the bubbling spring the oxygen enters allowing algae and other vegetation to grow.  The manatee help to clean the algae and vegetation during their winter visits, guess you could call it their traveling vacation or their trip to the cafeteria.

Clear bottom of the run to the St. Johns River
Manatee near the surface

There are many other residents of the spring area: the Florida scrub jay, gopher tortoise, black bear, the rare Okeechobee gourd, along with other plants and animals. The area has a long history of human habitation as evidenced by journals and the Thursby house built by Louis Thursby in 1872.

Louis Thursby House
built 1872 and home to
his wife and 12 children

The park literature reports 44 variety of fish in the run where viewed huge native fish. I guess the fish know fishing is not allowed in the run and they are safe here.

St. Johns River
looking back to Blue Spring run

 Wonder how many venture into the St. Johns River where fishing is legal? And, how many return to the safety of the spring?  Well, at 73 degrees in the run and appreciably colder water in the river, I know where I would be... in the run with the beautiful clear water.
  

Timucan Nature Trail

But let me not forget the park has a short nature trail, the Timucan Trail, cabins, a beautiful campground with many interlocking trails, and a 4.5 mile backwoods Pine Island Trail.

Pine Island Trail
into the backwoods
where you will find ample animal tracks
and few human tracks!

As with most of the Florida State Parks, this is a park with something for everyone.

Faver-Dykes State Park: A Hidden Jewel

A hidden jewel, yes that is Faver-Dykes State Park.  It is in the southern most area of St. Johns County, about 15 miles from historic St. Augustine, FL, and just off the I-95 and US-1 intersection.

Tall grass and Long Leaf Pines
heading into the campground

As you follow the unpaved road that winds into the park you pass tall pines, stately oaks, and palmetto before the road opens to reveal the jewel, Pellicer Creek.

Pellicer Creek
early morning

Pellicer Creek
Late afternoon with approaching rain

When you launch your canoe, kayak, or small boat there are two options... head up river (south west) to the head waters or down stream (east) to the Matanzas River.

Just back from the trip
with the wind now whipping the water

Early Sunday morning we opted to paddle towards the head waters and so headed south west.  The choice was determined by the tide, approaching full, and the wind, a slight breeze from the west.  So, we paddled into the current and wind, hoping to ride the current and wind on the return.  This was an excellent choice because the wind became quite gusty by 11 AM when we returned.  

Yes the wind did pick up by 11 AM.

Now Pellicer Creek twists and turns so regardless of your direction you will encounter wind.  Be certain to check the tides as it is a tidal creek.  Billy is skilled in reading tides and planned our route so the out going tide assisted us on the return.

One of the short hiking trails

As with most parks there is more than just paddling and fishing... you can hike, bicycle, and camp.  Currently are several short nature trails which can be combined with the roads for a fairly long walk.  

Just can't get away from damp trails
Remember, Florida is a Swamp!

On the trail we encountered a prime example of the old turpentine pine.  Much of the south eastern US was planted in pine which was harvested for the oil and lumber.  We often value lighter pine to start fires which is pine filled with the pine oil and sometimes called fat wood.

Pine stump covered with rosin
Every heard of lighter pine?
This is a good example

From the campground there is a nice nature trail starting by the campfire circle and loops back around.  This is a delightful trail and made a perfect walk for the cats late in the evening.  Slipjig lead the way trotting along with her tail high in the air and not a care in the world as we strolled along at 10 PM.

Lovely secluded camp sites
in this woodsy campground
at the back of the park.

We can attribute this beautiful park to Mr. Hiram Faver.  Recognizing the historical value and pristine nature of the land and wanting to preserve it for all Hiram Faver donated the land to the state in 1967.  The park was given as a lasting memorial to honor his parents Alexander Hall Faver and Florida Dykes Faver, thus the name Faver-Dykes.  It became the 63rd Florida State Park and is certainly a jewel worth preserving.  

Rodman Recreation Area and "Thank you, Marjorie Harris Carr"

For years people have said, “Rodman is one of my favorite camping spots.” But somehow the opportunity to visit had never happened. With one day free between stops in Ocala and Marineland we needed a campsite. Rodman Campground was on the way, off Hwy 19 near Palatka, so it was the perfect time to visit.

Campground Trails

Pulling into the campground mid-afternoon I knew the compliments were understated. The main activities are camping and hanging out. There are not official trails; however, you can find hiking on the top of the dredge mounds and along the fire break roads.

Home Sweet Home
Rodman Campground

Rodman Recreation Area is part of the Marjorie Harris Carr Cross Florida Greenway, this 110-mile corridor resulting from remains of the infamous “Cross Florida Barge Canal”. This canal was a dream from the early Spanish days, 1500s, through modern times. In 1935 the canal was started under the Emergency Relief Act and sputtered when the project lost funding. In the 1960s digging resumed much to the consternation of environmentalists. As a result of lawsuits and protests in the 1970s, due to the work of Marjorie Harris Carr, President Nixon halted construction. The project was officially decommissioned in 1990 and the State of Florida gained ownership of the land in 1991.  In 1998 the Cross Florida Greenway was renamed to honor Marjorie Harris Carr.  (history)

Rodman Dam
Ocklawaha River side

Cormorants below the dam

The campground is surrounded by tall long leaf pines, mid-aged live oaks, young turkey oaks, scrub, palmettos, and old sabal palms.

Long Leaf Pine Branches

Turkey Oaks
Often the under story in a
Long Leaf Pine forest

Now, if you take a short drive further into the preserve you will arrive at the Ocklawaha River which is now dammed to form Ocklawaha Lake. The dam was built as part of the Cross Florida Barge Canal project. Here you will find boating and fishing opportunities on the lake. You can canoe the river; however, it is broad and brisk at this point due to the dam. Perhaps a better option is to go up-river and start at Ray Wayside Park off highway 40.

Ocklawaha River below the dam
heading to the St. Johns River

Should you venture about another mile past the dam you enter the Ocala National Forest where the FloridaTrail crosses the road. For those wanting high powered adventure you will find jeep, motorcycle, and ATV trails.

Bill walking the trail
atop the dredge mound

Silver Springs State Park: Bicycling the trails!

Getting around the park is a treat due to the multiple intersecting trails.  As Bill was recovering from a sore heel which left him limping when he walked but had no effect on his bicycling the mode of transportation was an easy decision.  Off we went on the bicycles to explore the park.

OK, it is cool and overcast
but let's explore...
starting with the River Trail

Remember to grab a trail map so you can adventure through much of the park... Swamp and River trails (can be damp), Sand Hills and Sink Holes trails (high and dry), Ft. King and Ross Allen forest trails (wet this time), and across the park to the head springs on the Spring trail (dry with varied terrain).

The Fort King and Ross Allen trails
which explore the forested areas
and can be a bit damp

Recall that Florida is a swamp.  Did you forget?  Hope you wore your mud boots for this trip!

So true...

Recent rains left the river trails
a bit damp.

These numerous trails are accessible by foot, bicycle, or horse.  In truth, some trails are equestrian only while others are best for foot traffic and some for bicycle or foot traffic.  

Old Field Trail
with Oaks, grasses, and mature landscape

Now there are dry trails such as the Sand Hill, Sink Hole, and Old Field trails.  Old Field is a 1.9 mile loop winding through higher ground with mature landscape, grasses, and small birds.  It is a delightful trail and excellent for relaxing and pondering life.  

One of the many educational signs
along most trail.
Make the time to read them!

This as many of the trails contains ample nature interest signs.  Taking the time to read each sign will improve your Florida knowledge.

Silver Thread
Don't get too close
The spikes are sharp!

The Spring trail allows you to travel from the rustic side of the park to the former tourist attraction.  Needless to say the trail changes habitats several times along the 2.3 mile route.  For the most part it is high sandy soil under tall long leaf pines, small oaks, and shrubs adapted to a semi-arid environment. 

Long Leaf Pine
yes a youngster

When bicycling watch for that sugar sand which quickly grabs your wheels and makes peddling nearly impossible.   Sugar sand usually provides me with a welcome walk break!

Sink Hole Trail
Part of the Spring Trail

No matter which trail you choose, you will enjoy the adventure.

Silver Springs: Tourist Attraction to State Park

If you are like me, you remember the old tourist attraction "Silver Springs" and the previous "Silver River State Park" where the main access was by boat.  Welcome to the new Silver Springs State Park which opened in 2014.

Silver River

This is an area with huge natural resource potential as the state staff and volunteers turn the previous tourist attraction into the "Real Florida".

Boardwalk on the Swamp Trail
Leading to the Silver River

I suspect SilverSprings has been a prime tourist attraction since it first bubbled from the earth. Phillip Morrell fixed a piece of glass in the bottom of a rowboat and a new enterprise began.  By the late 1800s it was Florida's main tourist attraction touting the beautiful Silver River with tours of the springs using glass bottom boats.

Today's Silver Springs

In the race for tourist dollars other attractions sprouted up creating a 'plastic' version of Florida, most notably the Disney Complex, which changed the face of the state. Ah, I diverge. Anyway, Silver Springs had to adapt or close due to a lack of business. So, the park added more tacky structures, an animal park, petting zoo, amusement park rides, and a water park. Even that was not sufficient in the end and after realizing the upkeep was more than the income, the park was 'given' to the state of Florida.

Shop Row
A quiet stroll these days

Under the park service, the land is returning to nature. The formal gardens are being restored to an earlier time and the animal pens, rides, and tacky buildings removed. The rhesus monkeys and spider monkeys will remain at present. There are three pods or families of rhesus monkeys according to the biologist and trapper Mickey Summers who we encountered during our canoe paddle on the Ft. King canoe trail.

Bill unloading the canoe
for the paddle

Back to the park...

This is really five parks in one. There is the rustic side with multi-use trails (equestrian, bicycle, canoe/kayak, hike) through the back country. This section includes a campground with spacious sites that adjoin the trails. You will also find a Cracker Village in the park at the Silver River Museum that is used by the Marion County Schools to impart the history of Florida by living in the village, 8AM – 2PM Monday-Friday, and the weekends it is a working village for everyone else to visit.

Canoe Launch
near the head springs

Then we have the former tourist attractions, Silver Springs and Wild Waters. Wild Waters will continue to operate as a water park and hopefully help fund the restoration of the old Silver Springs as the park service works to create a nature park that retains the historical aspect of the 'tourist attraction' while incorporating modern conveniences and services. 

Complete with bicycle trails
and parking!
Cycle or hike the trails the campground
to the springs

Yes, this is a complex park that requires time, money, staff, and volunteers to maintain the existing facilities and bring it into a truly world class Florida State Park.

The Silver River
Looking towards the head springs

Plan a visit!