Suwannee River Greenway

Wanting to explore the area around White Springs, I found a bicycle trail near Branford, FL, the Suwannee River Greenway. There are several entry points but to us, the area near the Branford Shrine Club made sense.  The Suwannee River Greenway  runs along the CSX train rail bed, formerly a Henry Plant Railway.  

Branford Train Depot
Now the Shrine Club

Once the bikes were unloaded from the truck we headed down the path on the Suwannee River Greenway and spent the next two hours exploring the area on bicycle.

Bill ready to ride the trail

First we headed along the trail towards Ichetucknee Springs State Park, which is the next terminus on this trail.  It then continues to O'Leno State Park along another old rail bed.

Suwannee River  
looking west from the 
Branford Bridge

Our first stop was Ivey Memorial Park, a Branford city park.  Captain Robert Ivey was quite a character who built several steamships and even ran a hotel in Branford.  It is fitting a park commemorates his contributions to Branford.

Captain Robert Ivey of Branford was one of the most prominent steamship builders in Florida, and a park in Branford is named in his honor. Among his achievements was the construction of the famous steamship Belle of the Suwannee, built in 1889. This ship, famous for her “bridal suite” and a favorite of honeymooners, navigated the Suwannee River until sunk by a hurricane in Deadman’s Bay in 1896 that also destroyed part of the town of Branford and much of the timber in the area. Other famous ships built by Captain Ivey were the Louisa and City of Hawkinsville, the last steamboat on the Suwannee. In 1923 she was tied up down river at Old Town and allowed to sink at her berth. Thus ended the era of steamboating on the Suwannee River, once the lifeline of commerce before Florida became a state. Captain Ivey did not stop with steamship building, however, as he also operated a hotel that was a popular stop-off point for his steamboat passengers. (http://www.suwcounty.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=170&Itemid=54)

Plenty of shade on the sections we rode
However, we skipped the areas that fronted the highways

Leaving Ivey Park you pass through a gopher tortoise sanctuary where you will probably find a gopher or two.  We saw a huge one ambling along under a fence.  Continuing down the shade covered path we encountered several goats, a few horses, and the ranch.  Yes, all animals were fenced, Florida lost open-range status in 1949.

The trail passes many interesting areas
Including a ranch

Ranch house
complete with a
Palm Tree!

Returning to Branford we took a few minutes to admire the Suwannee River and comment on the width of the river here.  Upstream about 40 miles at White Springs, the river is not nearly as wide and better suited to small boats, kayaks, and canoes.  No sane boat captain would want to navigate the river shoals at Big Shoals State Park.

Banks of the Suwannee

Back on the trail heading north out of Branford we soon encountered the Branford Bend Tract managed by the Suwannee River Water Management District.  This section had been the home site for the Moses Family in the 1800s.

This is a rustic area with sandy roads but sufficiently hard packed to support my non-off road tires.  Again, it was a shady path that was delightful to explore.

Branford Tract off the Suwannee River Greenway

Abandoned house
on the Branford Tract off the Suwannee River Greenway

The road continued past the old house or shed and "T"ed into an open field.  The area promised fishing, picnic, and trails so you could probably take the right fork for more adventure.  At this point we wanted to continue on the Suwannee River Greenway and will save the trail for another day.

Tree farm along the trail

Another 5 miles of lovely shaded paved path and the trail exits the woods to parallel the road.  This section was not as interesting so we opted to ride back to Branford in search of lunch.  The Suwannee River Greenway is a trail I highly recommend.

Wild flowers carpet the road ways

Suwannee River Time

The other day I was speaking with Ranger Kim Rivers about time and how it is observed.  Now, Kim is a park ranger at Stephen Foster Folk Cultural Center State Park in White Springs FL with a background in story telling and folk art giving her experience with much of the state.  So we were discussing how people actually observe time.  

Ranger Kim
Greats you with a big smile
She is always helpful

From living in South Florida, I learned about "island time" when usually events happen 2-4 hours after the scheduled time.  There was "mainland time" which was more or less the scheduled time, "Yankee time" that required you to arrive early, "Cuban time" was 1-3 hours after the appointment, and "Hatian time" that might happen 4 hours after the official time.  

Perfect place for Suwannee River Time
Branford Tract off the Suwannee River Greenway

So, now I'm learning about "Suwannee River Time"... which means when ever we get around to it... could be today, tomorrow, or never.  On Saturday we decided to head for the Live Oak Farmer's Market which is scheduled for 9 AM to 1 PM.  Planning to leave White Springs at 8:30 we managed a 9:45 departure time arriving at the Farmer's Market a little after 10 AM.  Well, there were a few vendors set up with wonderful products... yes I did purchase from several booths.   

Vendors at the Live Oak Farmer's Market

The Farmer's Market website mentioned the group Patchwork was to play but with no time scheduled.  Now, Patchwork is a group not to miss so with no sign of music we inquired about time and received a vague answer. Something like, "Hang out for an hour or so there's plenty to do..."  I thought "Suwannee River Time".  Even with the temptation of home cooked lunch and Patchwork, we headed off to explore explore Branford, both the Suwannee River Greenway and catch the  Catfish Festival.

Wild flowers carpet the road ways

The Catfish Festival website promised a 7AM start with foot races and music noon-6 PM.  There were to be vendors, a fishing outfit pageant, and more.  The drive down was pleasant as it was a beautiful morning and the roads were blanketed with wild flowers.  However, upon arriving in Branford we found not much was happening other than an outdoor yard sale.  

Branford Train Depot
Now the Shrine Club

Not a problem as we wanted to cycle the Suwannee River Greenway and once the bikes were unloaded from the truck we headed down the path.  The next 2 hours were spent exploring the greenway which runs along the CSX train rail bed, formerly a Henry Plant Railway.  More information about our bike adventure on the greenway.

Bill ready for the Suwannee River Greenway

After completing the bicycle ride, around 1:30, there was still no sign of a festival so we headed back to Live Oak.  Along the way we stopped in O'Brien for a 'flea market' and McAlpin for a Community Rummage Sale which was to end a few hours earlier, "Suwannee River Time".

This sign was effective!

Community Rummage Sale

This put us back in Live Oak around 2 or 2:30 PM.  Just our luck, Patchwork had just ended their music sets and were packing up.  However, luck changed when we learned they were still serving food.  Somehow in all our travels we had not eaten lunch so this was perfect. 

Yes, now they were serving food!

There wasn't much of a menu but we took what was offered.  Quiche, hamburger, or hot dog with grilled squash, and pasta salad.  The lady handed us beautiful plates of food and kept asking if we needed more!  Well then we asked how much and tried to pay but no money was accepted.  Because of the special Mother's Day event at the Farmer's Market lunch was free.  The meal came as compliments of the Farmer's Market organizer and vendors.

How I love north Florida roadways!
Where you can enjoy
Suwannee River Time

We arrived back in White Springs and I began to think... was the Catfish Festival May 9th or May 16th?  A check of the Catfish Festival website confirmed it is May 16th.  Once again we were trapped by "Suwannee River Time".

Suwannee River Time

Home at Citra - Cleaning the yard

We do have a beautiful lot in Citra that serves as our home base when we are between volunteer gigs and traveling.  Citra is still rural with a wonderful crew at the Post Office who seem to know everything! 

Our road

The cats are thrilled when we go 'home' because they can be off leash... free to climb trees, catch frogs, and ramble through the brush.  And, believe me there is still plenty of brush in Citra.

"How I love being in Citra",
purrs kitty Anna

 Now, our stops are usually short and the time is spent bush wacking the yard.  The location happens to be on a dead-end road that ends at a creek that sometimes has water.  Water and scrub mean snakes and this trip was no exception:  black racer, striped rat snake, and a scarlet snake.  None of whom waited around for my camera!

Swamp at the end of the road
Some years it is dry...
but not recently

Trees seem to grow like weeds
Bill chains saws these to stumps

We have two adjacent lots in Citra.  The lower lot is under-brushed and mostly cleared of unwanted trees, finally.  However, the marsh area is a fertile habitat for saplings which need constant manicure.  Along with the brier patches, smilax (green brier), Virginia creeper, and now poison ivy.  The upper lot is still overgrown but slowly coming into compliance.

The before picture!

Success!  We cleared this area of debris

Just a few more big vines in this area

Citra is known for lovely old oaks but old oaks do not stand forever and in 2014 we lost a big tree during a storm.  The tree fell on another oak and needed to be removed before it forced the standing oak down.  

Base of a mighty oak

Bill found a neighbor with a bucket truck in late fall 2014 and had the tree cut into  manageable sections.  But the job is far from complete so each trip he spends some time either splitting logs or cutting them into smaller chunks.

Bringing the tree to fire size

Slowly the trees become firewood

Normally I can be found with the clippers, sheers, loppers, rake, and shovel.  But sometimes I get to play with the chain saw.  My preference, smaller logs.  Must admit, the following photo was a photo-op and not a working shot.

Yes, this was a posed picture
But I do use the chainsaw

Well, back to work on the vines where... you are never certain what you will find.

Beautiful stripped racer
wandering about.

FOTMC - Florida Old-Time Music Championships 2015

The Florida Old Time MusicChampionships (FOTMC) have been held on the first full weekend in April for 33 years... well, at least the 33rd annual gathering and the past 20 or so have been at this time.

FOTMC Logo
If there is such a beast

The weekend event was started by Mr. Ethnic (JimStrickland) and Cousin Ernie (Ernie Williams) to promote and preserve Old Time music in Florida. Each year the faithful gather to trade tunes, share stories, and compete.  Five years ago the event returned to it's roots, the Dade City Pioneer Museum, which is a perfect site for the competitions.  

Yes this identifies the place

The museum preserves and presents the history of the area during the mid-1800s which is perfect for old-time music.  The grounds are lovely and feature buildings from 1880-1930, a museum with exhibits and collections, and a train that operated in the area.

Actual train that operated in Dade City
during the 1800s

The setting is perfect except for the frequent trains that travel on the railroad track which is adjacent to the museum.  We could not figure a schedule, the trains seemed to run at random times and Friday night it seemed every 20-30 minutes another train would rumble through the area.  Of course, if a train happened during a competition, the performer had the option to stop and restart the tune after the train passed.  The trains became the source of many good jokes and a welcome relief from the steady stream of banjo jokes.

And the trains are still active
where they run all day and all night
Ask me, we were parked adjacent to the tracks!

Most of the weekend is spent with a series of competitions which become the show.  However, FOTMC always has a guest of honor, which usually means two people, and this year it was Erynn Marshall and Carl Jones.  Both Erynn and Carl are fun folks who join in jams or will chat with you on most any topic.  We were fortunate to see them perform once on Friday and twice on Saturday.  They are accomplished musicians with there own special styles, definitely old-time.

Erynn Marshall and Carl Jones
(promo photo from FOTMC.org)

Now, some individuals are serious and compete for recognition, others are sharing their talents for fun, while some blend the two perspectives. The reason to compete simply (or not so simply) depends on your musical state-of-mind. 

Jason, a budding old-time musician
practicing for the contest
he took first in both Beginning Banjo
and Beginning Fiddle

And, sometimes it depends on the competition whether it is serious or for-fun. Of course you must follow the rules to be a serious competitor but they are not difficult.

Bill competing in Beginning Banjo

However, learning the nuisances of the genre can be challenging.  You can't simply read the sheet music and expect to get it right.  And, for many tunes there is no sheet music... actually, most of the music was not written down until the second half of the 20th century... or to be more accurate from 1970 on. 

Bill sporting his third place ribbon
He took third in Banjo and Mandolin
Wonder which this is...

Music was passed down from one fiddler, banjo player, or singer to another.  The student might come to the master more than once to learn the tune and then take it home.  Sometimes, the student might forget part of the tune and in reconstructing the tune he/she would create a new own version.

Marg in the Banjo Contest

In any case, after a while you learn that each tune IS different and you learn to recognize the differences.  And that is what this weekend is about.  Variations and nuisances on a recognized old-time tune.  Yes, it is about mastery of the instrument and the style but even more on the knowledge of the genre and how the tune breathes (varies) as you play it.  Contrary to what some believe, Old-Time Music is an evolving style.

Marg the budding fiddler
Beginning Fiddle
where the kids played circles around me!

The Amazing Lake Louisa State Park

A visit to Lake Louisa State Park has been on my list for a long time. Finally we had the opportunity to visit for two days. First let me say, you need more than two days in this park! There is much to do and see in the park itself... hiking, bicycling, paddling the lakes, fishing, swimming, camping, birding, and a raft of other nature activities.

Lake Louisa
The largest of the 13 lakes

Early morning paddle on Dixie Lake

The park literature boasts 4,500 acres of wilderness which includes six lakes, two streams, 105 miles of shoreline, and 23 miles of trails of which 17 are rated multi-use  .Lake Louisa is a huge lake and the largest in a chain of 13 lakes.  The park boasts 11 distinct natural plant communities in the varied terrain.  

Rolling hills where oranges groves
once grew

 To give you an idea of the terrain, the park borders the eastern most edge of the Green Swamp (low and wet) and the northern edge of the Lake Wales Ridge (high, dry, rolling hills).

Sugar Sand trails leading towards Lake Louisa

The campground lies between Hammond Lake and Dixie Lake and I do mean between as it is a very short walk to either lake. If it takes you more than two minutes then you stopped to visit your neighbors.

Grasses gracing Dixie Lake
in the early morning

Hammond Lake
with mossy cypress and lily pads

Now, if the lakes don't interest you... look to the sky for osprey, red shouldered hawks, swallow-tailed kites, sandhill cranes, and other birds of prey. Don't want to look up, then study the trees and shrubs to find cardinals, robins, cat birds, mocking birds, wrens, warblers, sparrows, and other SBB (small brown birds).

A not too timid deer on the Big Creek trail

Lovely Swallowtail Kite
soaring high above the lakes and hills

OK, you want something different? From the campground there are two trail entrances, again with a two minute walk... unless you stop to chat. Both give you access to the 23 mile trail system where you can hike or bicycle these trails. Horses are allowed on the trails but I think you need another access point for horse entry.

A nice sandy but easy to ride trail

Big Creek
which borders the Big Creek Trail
and leads to Lake Louisa

How about a swim in Lake Louisa?
It would feel good after the hike!

The land is varied at the park, so expect everything from sugar sand and swamps to hilly meadows. Sometimes you would swear you are in the mountains and not in flat Florida. However, this part of Florida is hilly and quite unlike the coastal regions.

These hills beckon you to take a stroll

Geologically, this was a coastal region many years ago.  The changing environment left us with many lakes and sugar sand hills as the water receded.

Prairies and Meadows abound in this park

The recent history of the area and  park is rich, by recent I mean 1800-2000.  Summarized From the park website: In 1823, the area became part of the Seminole Indian Reservation by  the Treaty of Moultrie Creek.  It was not used by the Seminole Indians, no surprise if you consider the actions of the military and invasive whites.  

Invasive Lantana
Probably from earlier settlers

 So, in 1910, John and Louise Driggors Hammond settled most of the land surrounding Lake Louisa (does't say if they purchased the land).  They built a home, turpentine still, sawmill, shingle mill, school/church building, commissary, and worker's cabin. Products were shipped way steamboats and barge across Lake Louisa. 

Passion Flower

 By 1943, the Bronson family established orange groves and a cattle ranch on some of the property.  The park was purchased by the state in 1973 and opened to the public in 1977. Read the story and see old photos at https://www.floridastateparks.org/park-history/Lake-Louisa.

Lovely Prickly Pair Blossom