St. Augustine: Anastasia State Park, Late October

After spending three months at Anastasia State Park, I realized we would be leaving in two weeks on November 1st.  The surprise is not that we were leaving but that the time went so quickly.  

Early morning October sun through the oaks

We arrived in mid-July to assist my mother and eventually change her place of residence.  While we were at the park it just so happened a volunteer canceled for August and we were available, this was fortunate for everyone as our scheduled volunteer dates were September and October.  

Pelicans riding the air currents
Heading south for the winter?

So here we are in mid-October when it is northeaster season and the beach collects extra debris. It can be an exciting time with high tides, rough surf, and brisk winds. Then after the storm passes you get cooler days with crystal clear skies which are brilliant blue in the day and totally starry at night.

Notice the reeds washed in with the high tides
It is a bit cooler now...
people are wearing slacks and jackets

While volunteering you meet many wonderful people:  park rangers, resident volunteers, park friends, locals, and park guests.  There is so much to learn from each person so I am blessed to be a part of the volunteer community.

Park Manager Warren (right)
Jamming at a park event

Park friends:  Chuck & Kayla
Park Ranger: Mark
Jamming at another park event

Park rangers have an amazing tolerance for human nature, mistakes, and problems.  I bet one of the classes at the Florida Park Service Ranger School is "Making Lemonade from Sour Oranges" because every ranger is wonderful in dealing with the public and taking every situation into stride.

Lucy... one of our team mates
Always smiling

Lynette and Bill, volunteers
veterans of many parks

There is no "Volunteer School"; however, each park holds an orientation session that helps you learn the duties and more important the culture of the park and the Florida Park System.  It seems only the folks who continue to volunteer have a strong work ethic, enjoy people and hard work, and strive to make each day a bit better for both themselves and others.  Perhaps that is the best part of volunteering with the Florida Park System.

Shaun and Marj... park guests
A few of the delightful people you meet

The park guests are always a treat... well sometimes there are grumpy clients... but for the most part people are happy and helpful.  The above couple stayed in our service area for ten days so we had time to get acquainted and make friends.

October morning at the beach

Another benefit of volunteering in the state parks is the scenery.  How can you be unhappy when you awake to the sound of the ocean, birds, or a stream?  You can't complain when the scenery is beautiful and nature is in full bloom.  

Looking north from the boardwalk
Salt run, Light house, Vilano Beach bridge

Let me end with an old saying to remind me that hard days are not that hard, the rainy days not so damp, the cold not so bitter, and the love of friends and family ever present...

All's well that ends well.

Jacksonville: Little Talbot Island State Park

We had several destination goals on our day-trip to the Talbot Islands: Kingsley Plantation (read the post), Ft. George Island Cultural State Park, and Little Talbot Island State Park. These and several other parks and historical sites are located within a short drive of each other.

Slipjig strolling the grounds of
The Ribault Club
Notice she is formally dressed in her tuxedo!

Actually  Kingsley Plantation and Ft. George Island Cultural State Park are adjacent to each other on Ft. George Island and shared hiking trails allow scenic access to both. 

The Ribault Club
photo: http://www.exploresouthernhistory.com/fortgeorgeisland.html

As Florida became a playground for the rich, St. George Island was one of those exclusive destinations.  In 1928 the Ribault Club was built to host lavish parties, games, and events.  It was a favorite spot for some of America's most wealthy residents.  As times changed it fell into disrepair; however, after a four-year historic restoration, this waterfront Club has reopened.  You can tour the facility,learn the history, and hike the grounds.  It is also available as a rental for weddings, special events, and meetings. Currently it is operated by the Florida State Parks, the National Park Service, and a concession, Cape Leisure Corp.

Scrub, flowers, and mule grass
abound on the dunes

The next stop was Little Talbot Island State Park, a short drive from Ft. George Island.  Over the years we have made several visits to the park which is a nice 'escape' from Anastasia State Park where we were volunteering. 

Trail through the sand dunes to the beach

In truth both Little Talbot and Anastasia are located on barrier islands with long stretches of beach, trails, and camping but there are differences.  One of the major differences is the beach, at Anastasia you have a long, hard packed surface to stroll along with multiple swimming areas.  This is not the case at Little Talbot which being further north and closer to the inlet has rough waters and soft sand.

Swimming at Little Talbot is limited

While both parks have an abundance of bird life and nesting areas there is less interference at Little Talbot Island.  Much of the safety is due to the remoteness, Anastasia is now surrounded by houses, businesses, and population growth while Little Talbot is somewhat remote from housing and traffic.  The Little Talbot website boasts "With more than five miles of beautiful, white sandy beaches, Little Talbot Island is one of the few remaining undeveloped barrier islands in Northeast Florida."  So, life here is different from much of developed Florida.

Beach path mostly deserted

As you explore the island you will find various terrain from maritime forests to desert-like dunes and undisturbed salt marshes. These various habitats results in a variety of wildlife from river otters and  marsh rabbits to bobcats and gophers.  I'm not even going to attempt to list the native and migratory birds.

Mule grass with the beautiful fall foliage.

So, if you are looking for a relaxing day or weekend, plan a trip to the Talbot Islands State Parks where you will find:

-- Seven Florida State Parks:Pumpkin Hill Creek Preserve State Park, Amelia Island State Park, Fort George Island Cultural State Park, Yellow Bluff Fort Historic State Park, Big Talbot Island State Park and George Crady Bridge Fishing Pier State Park. 

-- The nearby Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve including Fort Caroline, Kingsley Plantation, and several other areas.

Sea oats help to stabilize the sand dunes

If you are a history buff and/or looking for the Real Florida, you will not be disappointed by the wide range of opportunities that exist here.

Jacksonville, FL: The Kingsley Plantation

It seems that October was tourista month as my mother's health care was somewhat stable and we were soon to leave the area for a different volunteer assignment.  So, one rainy St. Augustine day we drove 60 miles north to Kingsley Plantation where it was sunny and dry. 

Main house at the plantation
which was expanded with each owner

This area of Florida has been occupied since ancient times starting with native Americans, the Timucuan.  Later the French, Spanish, British, Spanish again, USA, Confederates, and now the USA again.  The park has changed hands many times during it's public life and is not a National Park.

However, this house is the oldest existing plantation house in Florida and dates back to Florida’s plantation period, 1763-1865, It resides on Fort George Island and was owned by multiple planters over those years. Zephaniah Kingsley and Anta (Anna) Madgigine Jai, his African wife, owned the plantation from 1814 to 1837.

Kiosk on the grounds

Aside: 

I've recently noticed a trend to down play slavery and the enslavement of Negros, Native Americans, and other people of color, including my relatives.  This seems to be a national trend so I'll let you compare these two statements about the house:

From ExploreSouthernHistory.com:

Built by slaves in 1798 as the centerpiece of a massive plantation on Fort George Island, the Kingsley Plantation house is the oldest plantation house in Florida.

From the National Park Site:

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, many people came to Florida. Some, like Zephaniah Kingsley, sought to make their fortunes by obtaining land and establishing plantations. Others were forced to come to Florida to work on those plantations, their labor providing wealth to the people who owned them. Some of the enslaved would later become free landowners, struggling to keep their footing in a dangerous time of shifting alliances and politics. All of these people played a part in the history of Kingsley Plantation.

Slave quarters
Some residences were larger than others

To be honest, the Kingsley's had a different idea of slavery and appeared to be kind to their slaves and used a task system.  With this system, each person had a task to perform and once finished they were free for the remainder of the day to do as they pleased.  During planting and harvest seasons the tasks may take 12-18 hours but during slack times the task could be completed in a few hours.  This is reflective of an agriculture system.

Barn/Curing house

When the United States gained possession of Florida from Spain in 1821 slavery changed.  Laws and treatment became harsher and often free blacks were forced back into slavery. To no avail, Zephaniah Kingsley fought against the restrictive US laws as he urged lawmakers to retain the civil liberties of free blacks.

View from the plantation house
the vital waterway for transportation and commerce

Realizing the plight of his family, slaves, and freed men was in danger he sought refuge. Zephaniah and Anna opted to relocate to Haiti which was a free black republic following a bloody revolution in 1789.  They also took their two sons and 50 of their freed slaves to Haiti.  Their two daughters, having married white businessmen in Jacksonville, remained in Florida.  Zephaniah died in 1843 and Anna returned to Florida in 1870 after the US Civil War. 

Ranger ready for a tour

Plan a trip to the Ft. George Island and the Kingsley Plantation for a walk back in history.  Life will not be the same after your visit.  This was my second trip and each left me with a deeper appreciation for slavery and freedom.

St. Augustine: St. Benedict the Moor Blues Festival

The weekend of October 16-17 2015 was a busy one with many events so we had to pick and choose.  This Saturday we managed to make the 54th Annual Cracker Day (read my post) and  the 5th Annual St. Benedict the Moor Blues Festival.  

Folks enjoying the find food, music, people,
and weather at the festival

This annual event helps finance the restoration of the 1880's era church, rectory, and school.  The school was founded in 1898 for the education of Free Black Slaves and Native Americans.  It was operated by the Sisters of St. Joseph who came from France for this mission.

http://thefirstparish.org/fosb.html

Having been raised in St. Augustine, I recall when all the Catholic schools in town were condensed into two facilities, 1-8 and 9-12.  The schools were consolidated shortly before official desegregation but mostly it was a financial decision.  At the time St. Augustine was small and having the two schools on St. George Street did not inconvenience anyone too greatly. 

http://thefirstparish.org/fosb.html

So we arrived at the festival to be greeted by two good friends and music buddies, Nancy and Tom Wilson who were at the ticket booth.  Tom and Nancy were friends with Bill when they all lived in Ft. Lauderdale.  They moved to St. Augustine about the time I moved to south Florida.  However, we are always in contact from frequent trips to St. Augustine, our interests in music, festivals, and travel. 

Nancy and Tom Wilson
Dedicated volunteers at St. Benedict

Why go to a blues festival?  Of course it is for the music, food, and companionship... not to mention supporting the cause.  I have many favorite musicians and two of them were playing in a band that afternoon, Lori Baxter and John Allison.  So we hurried back to town from the Cracker Day celebration to catch their set.  And, I must say it was well worth the effort.

Local band with a couple of our jam buddies

 Of course you will find excellent fresh food at this festival: beef brisket burgers, chicken gumbo, sea food gumbo pulled pork, BBQ ribs, BBQ chicken, and home baked goodies.  I opted for the chicken gumbo which was spicy, thick, and filling along with a big slab of corn bread.  Billy went for the BBQ ribs, slaw, potatoes, and corn muffin.  Since he emptied his plate I'd say it was pretty good.  And, this was his second BBQ of the day, his first was at Cracker Day!

Bill enjoying the great vittles

Lastly, it is for the people you meet.  Sitting at our table were two wonderful ladies and long-time St. Augustine residents.  One lady looked strangely familiar and as we chatted it became clear that we had both taught at the same school back 1987-1990, St. Augustine Technical Center.  The other lady had taught at the Florida School for the Deaf and Blind and many of my students had graduated her program.  We circulated to another table only to find several other acquaintances and friends.

Nothing better to cap a beautiful day

Yes, it was a beautiful and rewarding day.  Hope to make it next year.

St. Augustine: Music in the Park, October

OK, it is the second Saturday of the month 6 PM... time for Music in the Park at Anastasia State Park.  And this month was different as darkness was encroaching as the first round of players arrived.  Have you ever considered that nature has changed the time but our clocks have not caught up?  Blame it on Daylight Savings Time.

Campers Shaun and Marj
attended the event
along with six family members

Park Manager Warren is quite involved with the monthly event and brings his sound system so the attendees can hear and appreciate the music.  If you ever played in music jams, you know how easily the singer's voice is lost.  So, his loan of the sound system is greatly appreciated.

Chuck on washtub bass (left)
Ranger Mark on lead (center)
Park Manager Warren with harmony (right)

Other early arrivals were members of Friends of Anastasia including musicians Kayla Douglas and Chuck Krantz who have been anchors for this event and Bob Ganley with his many songs and guitar.  Of course Billy was there to run the sound system and treat us with a song.

Another selection by Ranger Mark
Chuck and Kayla offer backup

This month there seemed to be two jams.  At the early jam during twilight we rocked to bluegrass with Sue, fiddle, and Bob, banjo, Ranger Steve on drums, and others. As the dusk fell and more musicians arrived these three headed out for dinner.   Note: I was busy performing during the first half of the set so there are not many photos of that half.  

Ranger Mark (left) providing backup
for Ranger Warren (right)

The second half of the show treated the audience to singer/songwriter originals and a few covers (1970 pop songs).  By this time Ranger Mark, Ranger Billy, and Park Manager Warren had arrived to share their talents.  And, I can't forget local musicians Ellen, Lisa, and Ron.  The variety and evening must have been a hit because most people remained for the entire three hours of music and announcements.

Chuck accompanies & Ranger Mark
entertain the guests

Anastasia State Park is blessed to have so many talented Friends and Rangers who participate on a regular event.  Plan on visiting the park on the second Saturday to enjoy the beach, trails, and Music in the Park.

St. Augustine: The Colonial Quarter

In St. Augustine it is always time to "play tourist" and I wanted to visit an updated St. Augustine attraction, The Colonial Quarter.  Years ago I was a volunteer tour guide, back when I taught a four day week at the St. Augustine Vocational-Technical Center, so part of my Friday was spent at the village. At the time it was called St. Augustine Antigua and operated by the State of Florida.  Ownership is often in a state of flux and currently it is under the joint guidance of Pat Croce Company and the University of Florida.  

Current Logo/Sign

At the Endless Summer Run, Anastasia State Park, there were several silent auction items without bids so I made a few starter bids.  Then I was busy helping with the race and forgot about the auction.  When the bides closed, I won tickets to the Colonial Quarter!  Great because I really wanted to take the tour.

Let's play tourist!
I'm ready with my tourista shirt.

The Quarter is living history which is the best way to learn history... live it.  The quarter covers the 16th to 18th centuries.  That's right, 1513 when Ponce de Leon "discovered La Florida" to a recreated 1770 British Period printing press.

Weapons shop
Knives, Muskets, Swords, and more

While awaiting the guided tour to begin we climbing the reconstructed Watch Tower for a birds-eye view of the area.  This was a new addition since my volunteer stint ended in 1995 and a welcome addition.  From the tower looking east you can see across the fort and bay and through the "new, 1949, inlet" to the ocean.  

Watch tower view
the Castillo de San Marcos

Peering to the north is the site of Fort Moses, the first free black settlement in the US but then Spanish Florida.  Turning to the west is a view of the old town and Flagler College which was a swamp before becoming The Hotel Ponce de Leon, the jewel of the Henry Flagler system.  Note: I taught at Flagler College in the mid 1980s.  And finally looking south you can see the remainder of the town with the 1800's plaza and churches, the Florida National Guard Offices Headquarters which was a St. Francis Barracks, a Franciscan Monastery, and other notable sites.

Watch tower view
Victorian Era home

Our guide, Grimm, was the glue that brought the experience together.  A fine actor and interpreter he stayed in character and lived the part while teaching us history from 1513 boat construction and navigation to 1780 St. Augustine life. 

Grimm, the best tour guide

Along the way he instructed us in the fine art of black smithing and weapon smithing.  We learned of the Spanish periods and life in early St. Augustine including the seven times the town was burned.  Through the transition to and from the British period, 1763-1784.

Old well, Merchant store/house,
Garcia house (in rear)

This is always an enchanting area where I have visited,  volunteered, re-enacted, played, and toured.  Yes, I highly recommend the tour on your next visit to St. Augustine as it is history come to life.

St. Augustine: The Old Spanish Quarry, Chimney, and Well

For years I have traversed the Old Beach Road, on foot, by bicycle and automobile.
How many years?  Well lets say I am now 66 years young, was raised near the site of the Old Coquina Quarry when it was just an overgrown place along a small black-top empty road.

Top of the well

 At some point, my father purchased a lot in the area and so we passed the site going to and from his lot.  It took several years to clear that lot and eventually build a house.  Then he moved to the house and I passed that site on each trip to his house.

The well, cedars, and shelter

The entire area has gained the interest of archaeologists and some have determined that 

"These ruins are all that remain of what was probably a Spanish barracks which housed the quarry overseer, master masons, and stone cutters who were involved in the construction of the Castillo de San Marcos"  Today it is known as the Old Spanish Chimney and Well and at some point in the last few someone has spent an appreciable amount of time beautifying the area.

Well side with interesting holes
for fences or buckets?

But growing up we knew it as the Old Coquina Quarry.  Coquina is a natural seashell rock composed of tiny and small shells deposited in layers over fine sand.  After years of compression by the sea it becomes a type of rock.  Coquina is found on the Florida coast from north of St. Augustine to the Melbourne area. As it is the only 'rock' in the area the Spanish quarried coquina to build The Castillo de San Marcos, the fort, which is the most significant building using this stone.

The chimney with a huge area for wood

According to the research,
The quarry, located directly across the road from this site, contained rich veins of coquina which the Indian workers shaped into rough blocks. Under the supervision of the quarry overseer, Alonso Diaz Mejia, the blocks were transported by wagon and then by raft to the site of the Castillo. Completed in 1695, the great fortress was the keystone of the Spanish system of defense of Florida.

Looking into the well which is dry today

In 1763 King George III declared the quarry pits to be a royal reserve. And during the Victorian era in St. Augustine the rock was used in its gravel form and mixed concrete to build: the Ponce de Leon Hotel, Alcazar, Casa Monica, Villa Zorayda, Grace United Methodist Church, Memorial Presbyterian, and other buildings.
"The new concrete building material is a composition of sand, Portland cement and shells. ...and posses the very important qualities of durability and immunity from destruction by fire."  (From the 1892 Standard Guide St. Augustine.)

And there you have the story of Coquina and the importance of the rock in the development of St. Augustine, Florida.