St Johns County Cracker Day

Every year long about mid-October the St. Johns County Cattlemen's Association hosts Cracker Day.  This year was the 54th Annual Cracker Day and held on October 16th.  

Watching the horse events
Competitors or Well wishers?

Of course you couldn't have a Cracker Day without the Florida Cattle Women.  In years past they were known as the Cow Bells, a cute but not very flattering name.  At some point the name was rethought and the Belles became Women.  Anyway, my mother Margie served as President.  During the time she was active the Cow Bells cooked and served the famous lunch:  Slow roasted local beef, Hastings potatoes, and coleslaw made from Hastings cabbage.  And of course, a wonderful bake sale.

Mother Margie
President of the Cowbells

Now, it has been years since I went to Cracker Day and things have changed.  The barrel races and other horse events have moved from under the tall pines into a covered arena.  

Races not occur inside a covered arena

You can now select fish and gator from one vendor and chicken or beef from another vendor.  These days a live local band provides a mixed selection of music instead of recorded music.  But the whip cracking contest is still outdoors and the bake sales are still in operation.  Thank goodness for home baked goodies.

Tractors clear the arena between heats
about every 6th contestant's run

The focus of the day is truly horse skills and the Cracker horse.  The Florida Cracker Cattle and Horses are described as of moderate size, brought to Florida in the 1500s by the Spanish. And each year, the St. Johns County Cattlemen’s Association pays tribute to both that date back centuries “just because it has to be done,” said Chuck Stevens, former local association president. There is a need to carry on the tradition of telling the history of Florida Crackers.

Chuck and Margo Stevens
Chuck of the St. Johns County Cattlemen
Margo, my step-sister, carries on tradition
her father was dedicated to Cracker Day

However, the contestants did not necessarily demonstrate ranch skills as I doubt most of the riders have actually worked cattle.  Yes, some have but there were many young girls competing who were still learning horse skills.  Now I am not a horse person but many of those riders and horses seemed to be more adapted to Dressage than Ranch work. 

So many horses!
How many horses are in the area?

Three riders in particular are my sister, niece, and nephew, who love horses but have regular day jobs and each have a horse for recreational riding.  Don't mis-understand me, not everyone can or should work on a ranch but the Cracker and ranching traditions should be kept alive.   

Nephew Jesse astride his new horse

 You could call this a family reunion day as much of the Chauvin-Nease family was present.  My sister Suzette Chauvin King, niece Vivien Williams, and step-sister Margo Nease.

Suzette, my sister, strolling
with her cow dog.

It was good to see the family and have time to visit with them and friends.  As always it was a treat to see Vivien on her horse as you don't find many people who can sit a horse as well as Vivien.

Niece Vivien exercising her horse.

And of course, Bill and I get into the act by preserving the Cracker life, tradition, and history through music, original songs, and selected collected songs.  Normally in appropriate attire.

Great photo taken by the
bake sale staff

Kissimmee: Florida Ranch Rodeo and Heritage Festival

Everyone has a picture of a rodeo... the riders leaving the chute on a bull or wild horse, the clowns who bravely distract the bull or horse while the rider scrambles to safety.  Right?  But like professional wrestling or Reality TV... it is mostly drama, excitement, and show not the real day-to-day activities of ranchers or real people.  

Program, Entry Ticket,
Brisket Tasting Ticket

So when our friend Larry Ellis invited us to the Florida Ranch Rodeo and Heritage Festival we said, "Yes!"  The event is hosted by the Florida Cattlemen's Association along with the Florida Cattlewomen's Association

Florida Cracker Cows
awaiting the roping contest

The this was the Florida Ranch Rodeo Finals held September 25 & 26, 2015 in Kissimmee, FL at the Silver Spurs Arena.  The arena is huge, seating 8,000 people so it almost always looks empty.  You can manage quite a walk as you wander the two levels with full mezzanines on both levels, well it is 33,946 square feet.  Did I say huge?  

The cutting event
The gal cuts three calves from the herd
her team (guys) must keep them "penned"

This beautiful facility was built in 2003 and is immaculate.  It replaced the original Silver Spurs grand stand which was rustic but not accommodating in all types of weather.  You don't cancel an event due to weather unless it is severe... hurricane, tornado, and similar.  If you think this is a passing fad, think again, the Silver Spurs has been in operation since 1941, over 44 years.

Well, the rodeo was held in the evening, Friday and Saturday nights, 6 PM until the last event ended which was around 11 PM. 

This beautiful building is 12 years young
and looks as if it was built yesterday.

 Saturday was the Cowboy Heritage Festival.  Now, many in Florida have a squabble with the word "cowboy" as in Florida we had cowhunters or cowmen. 

Replica chuck wagon with saddle
and other historical goodies

 Florida was open range until 1949 and so you had to hunt the cattle.  Then, legend has it that when the Confederates recruited soldiers, in most states they took men and boys but Florida was (and still is) a cattle production state.  So, to feed the troops, any man working cattle in Florida was not accepted to the Confederate Army, they stayed to run the cattle and feed the army.  Thus the term Florida Cowman.

Re-enacting  the Florida Cow Calvary

And what cattle drive would not have music?  There was always someone with a banjo or guitar and a teller of tall tales.  

Music/Story/Poetry Pavilion (Tent)

Yes, the Heritage Festival included a music/cowboy poetry/storytelling tent.  Every selection was relevant to Florida, cattle, and/or horses.

Larry Magnum of Jacksonville brought
his fine voice and fantastic original songs

But not all tall tales were shared at the Entertainment Tent.  I heard many wonderful stories at the historical displays, in the camp ground, the arena, and even behind the scenes.

Not all tall tales were told at the Entertainment Tent
Here the Swamp Cabbage chefs trade stories

At every Florida ranch event you must have a whip cracking contest.  You know the old story about Crackers and Florida Crackers...  the name came from the sound of the cow whips.

Awesome whip cracking by the gals

Whips are still made by hand and used daily on Florida ranches.  Just in case you didn't know, Florida is beef country. Currently, there are more than 1 million head of cattle and 15,000 beef producers throughout Florida. Guess the mass migration and housing projects have displaced the grazing land... digression as Bill Messer would say.

Judging the whip contest

Another highlight of the day was the brisket tasting contest.  Now, I am NOT a beef eater but When in Rome do as the Romans... or so the saying goes.  Anyway, I purchased a ticket for the tasting mainly because I wanted Swamp Cabbage and it was included in the tasting.  Also, I wanted to support the event.

Swamp Cabbage... almost ready

So with bowl in hand I headed to one of the seven booths in the Brisket Contest and asked for a small serving.  Small is relative and was huge by my standards, so I shared.  At the remaining stands I explained that I was NOT a beef eater and so wanted only a taste... still I had plenty to share.  

Well, after two stops it was time for Swamp Cabbage and the folks had prepared it pan fried, boiled, and as fritters.  In my opinion the pan fried was best but each person had a different opinion.  

Brisket Tasting was a popular event

on Saturday

Somehow I managed to taste all seven offerings and survive to tell of it... recall I do NOT eat beef as it does not always agree with me.  

To end I'd like to share a quote from the author Patrick Smith

What really makes a person a true Florida Cracker (besides being born in the state)? 

Several things: 

Heritage

A love of the land and nature, growing things in soil, close family ties, and a deep sense of religion. It also means cracklin' bread and grits and periwinkle soup and swamp cabbage and okra gumbo and ham hocks with collard greens and chicken fried in a cast iron skillet and guava jelly and homemade blackberry cobbler.

A Cracker's word is his bond. If he looks you in the eye and says, "Yes, I will do this for you," then he will - and that's that. They have no pretense, never put on airs, never try to appear to be something other than what they are, and they never "blow smoke" over you. They either like you or they don't, and it's as simple as that ...

Full sized Cracker Pony
Auctioned by the Florida Cattlemen's Association

St, Augustine: Volunteering at Anastasia State Park

 This is our third summer/fall at Anastasia State Park as resident volunteers.  Every year we perform the same jobs, camp site and bathhouse maintenance, yet each year is different.

August was the typical hot and humid month
in St. Augustine

This year we arrived mid-July to help my mother through some hard times and since the park was short on volunteers for August we started working.  

Spiders were active in September
with beautiful webs

Our original plan was to play until our volunteer slots for September and October but it is always good to be flexible.  And volunteering is in our nature.

October flood high tide in Salt Run
Full moon, North-west wind, Full tide
Coastal Flooding

So a typical work day for us at Anastasia State Park starts with a cat walk between 5 and 6:30 AM depending on the sunrise.  Why so early, well, cats tend to be nocturnal and I like to get an early start on the bath house.  In state parks and most private parks animals are not allowed to roam free so we leash walk them.  

OK, let's go for the walk
I'd prefer to run free but it's against
State Park rules.... Drat!

But there are many benefits to an early start:  the sky is fantastic just before dawn, the planets are visible this time of year, you may see a falling star, The armadillos dart about, if you can call their movement darting.  The cats get a rather uninterrupted walk and often walk 1-2 miles. Lastly, I can get up early and Bill can then go back to bed for a nap.  See, everyone is happy,

Resurrection Fern amid the Spanish Moss
view above our camper

So between 7 and 8, I make the first bath house check for the day.  

Ready for work.
Volunteer uniform and work tools

Hopefully there are no major problems and it takes only a quick wipe down, sweep, and maybe mop in the shower area.  That doesn't always happen, especially on busy weekends or when it is raining and muddy.  But that morning check keeps the bath house clean for the next several hours.

Bill styling in the work cart
Heading out for the site numbers

Bill usually collects the site numbers and gets the cart ready once he finishes his morning nap... or completes the night sleep.  You can decide the correct term.  But don't think he gets off light because he gets the evening bath house check.

It has been a rainy year
view from inside the work cart

As I said earlier, each year is different.  This year has been rainy.  One day I headed up to get the numbers and it was a bit damp (see above).

Salt Run on one of the many stormy days
which you pass on the way to the ranger station
not a bad view!

In fact we had several weeks of rain which left a soggy campground.  We did feel sorry for the tent campers as the steady down pour or those 4.5" rains could make a mess of any site.

It will be a bit longer before the
campfire circle is usable by humans

The next task is to clean the camp sites.  You inspect the site, pick up trash, clean the fire pit, sweep and dust the table, and fold down the sheets and put a mint on the pillow.  Well, all but the last two. But we do clean the back woods behind the sites because the party animals (raccoon) steal packaged food and drag it into the palmettos.

Palmettos in a rather damp area
this year, next year it may be bone dry

 Some sites require raking (always in October due to falling leaves) and trimming of branches, vines including grapes, and stickers such as Spanish Needles.

Spanish Needles or
Beggar Ticks (Aster family)

Of course everything grew extremely well due to the rain and sometimes you need to trim the grape vines from the roadway.  Hopefully, the vine would have a few grapes for your efforts.  But not too many this year.

Ample rain brings ample grape vines
Full of growth in August
Grapes in September
Falling leaves in October

Can't forget that mid-day a complete bath house cleaning is needed.  This means you disinfect and wipe down everything!  Showers, sinks, toilets, benches, walls, floors, lights, doors, stalls, and anyone who gets in the way!  This takes a little time but well worth it as we all like clean bathrooms.  And finally we empty the trash and run the trash compactor if needed.

The park has a wonderful compactor
it is amazing what gets compressed
it is also amazing what is trashed

When you finish your chores there is time to relax, walk the cats, go to the beach, play music, visit with friends, go fishing, play tourist, and read.

Days off allow time to explore,
fish, beach, and relax

In addition to working the campsites we help in other areas such as the Endless Summer Run, Music in the Park, bird counts and ghost tours (2014), and more.

Bill running sound for the monthly
Music in the Park event

Regardless of the activity there is always fun to be had when you volunteer.

All is well that ends well
From the Endless Summer Run

White Springs FL: Stephen Foster Old Time Music Weekend

This annual three day event celebrating old time music is held at the Stephen Foster Folk Cultural Center State Park.  This year the event was September 11, 12, 13, 2015.  As always, the weekend was sponsored by the Stephen Foster CSO (Citizen Support Organization)

The official poster
I won a signed copy in the silent auction!

Just in case you were wondering...  yes, we did volunteer again this year.  Bill provided sound support while I worked in the merchandise area with a friend Debbie.  Debbie and I first became acquainted through our interest in the folk/lever harp, perhaps fifteen years ago.

Debbie at the sales table
Silent Auction items in the background

The Stephen Foster Old Time Music Weekend is an opportunity for musicians to further their study in old time music techniques on the banjo, guitar, fiddle, and voice.

Banjo Practice

During the weekend you can attend in-depth instruction from well known and accepted old-time music professionals.  Much to my disappointment my fiddle was in the repair shop which meant I couldn't take classes from one of my favorite fiddlers, Beverly Smith. However, this let me focus on the banjo and guitar.  Sitting in on a guitar classes with John Grimm and Stephen Hodges greatly improved both my understanding and proficiency on the guitar.

Guitar Class with John Grimm
This class was an eyeopener for me

Then there was also time for a couple of banjo classes so I selected a great class with 

Cathy Fink, a workshop with Cathy Fink and Chuck Levy, and Sunday a wonderful study in D tuning with Bob Lanham.

My turn to practice
on the Michael Coleman Banjo

Popular Saturday afternoon classes are individual instruction and the string band class.  In String Band, the participants are divided into bands and then given an hour to perfect a tune for a performance.  They are not left to their own devices as each group has an instructor (or two) to guide them in perfecting the tune.  It is always amazing how quickly individuals who have never played together can create a performance ready tune.  The student concert is one of my favorite activities.

String band class
Led by Steve Hodges

Speaking of concerts, there are formal concerts on both evenings; Friday evening is the Florida Masters Concert and Saturday evening is the Instructor’s Showcase.  This year our good friends Ron and Carol Whister were the featured Florida Masters and provided a wonderful set.  They were followed by Florida artists Asha Ivy, Steve Hodges, and Chuck Levy.  The Saturday concert featured Cathy Fink (solo) and Beverly Smith and John Grimm.  I was so impressed with Cathy's solo performance which is rare in old-time music but she captivated us with the banjo and the uke. 

 

Class Picture
Bill Messer, far right with guitar

As always, it was a fun weekend and well worth the time and expense.  I am looking forward to the 2016 Stephen Foster Old Time Music Weekend.

St. Augustine: Endless Summer 5K & 10K at Anastasia State Park

Endless Summer... ah yes, I recall that wonderful movie. The Endless Summer, which simply enforced my wanderlust and desire to seek warm climates year round.  As you know by now that doesn't always happen but it is a dream.

10 K Runners blessed by a rainbow
after the early morning shower.

For others the dream was to complete the Endless Summer 5K or 10K walk/run on Sept 19, 2015.  The event was held at Anastasia State Park in St. Augustine FL, sponsored by the Friends of Anastasia,and Don's Friends.

The Official Logo which was fantastic on a Tee Shirt
Pre-order ONLY

This was the 12th Annual running of the Endless Summer event and tickets were sold out by early 2015.  Yes, it is a popular event that can handle at most 450 participants.  This year runners awakened to the patter of rain, actually it had been raining most of August and September so the planned route was modified... otherwise it would have been a mud run! 

 

Photo complements of the race website

Not a problem as the new route spent more time on the beach and who will complain about running along side the ocean on firm and forgiving sand?  Not me.  Luckily someone snapped a photo of the runners for me! (see above)

The rain ended before dawn
the runners are ready to start

Bill and I volunteered on race day and arrived at the race site around 6 AM... yes it was an early start but then we are often up between 5 AM and 6 AM to walk the cats.  It was still dark when we arrived and the roads were wet from the early morning rain shower.  

5K participants rounding the corner
and heading to the finish line

Bill was once again the 'sound man' and 'stage hand' helping with the microphone, speakers, and assisting as needed.  I spent time between traffic direction and insuring the bathrooms were neat and clean, both important for safety and civility. It is interesting how you can feel the excitement, hope, and tension in the air from those 450 runners.  Emotions certainly cut through the early morning dawn.

Runners warming up
and heading to registration
the tension is in the air

But all is well that ends well and everyone finished in a reasonable time.  I truly enjoyed watching the runners and walkers as they crossed the finish line and read their event time on the huge time banner.  Later the results were posted on the event web site.

Post race
time to wind down

By 11 AM most of the runners had exited the park, the surfers were heading to the beach with their boards, and the volunteers had clean-up from the race.  By noon, it was all history and a memory of the lovely rainbow that promised a perfect day for everyone.

Rainbows promise beautiful days
and it was a magnificent day.