FOTMC - Florida Old-Time Music Championships 2015

The Florida Old Time MusicChampionships (FOTMC) have been held on the first full weekend in April for 33 years... well, at least the 33rd annual gathering and the past 20 or so have been at this time.

FOTMC Logo
If there is such a beast

The weekend event was started by Mr. Ethnic (JimStrickland) and Cousin Ernie (Ernie Williams) to promote and preserve Old Time music in Florida. Each year the faithful gather to trade tunes, share stories, and compete.  Five years ago the event returned to it's roots, the Dade City Pioneer Museum, which is a perfect site for the competitions.  

Yes this identifies the place

The museum preserves and presents the history of the area during the mid-1800s which is perfect for old-time music.  The grounds are lovely and feature buildings from 1880-1930, a museum with exhibits and collections, and a train that operated in the area.

Actual train that operated in Dade City
during the 1800s

The setting is perfect except for the frequent trains that travel on the railroad track which is adjacent to the museum.  We could not figure a schedule, the trains seemed to run at random times and Friday night it seemed every 20-30 minutes another train would rumble through the area.  Of course, if a train happened during a competition, the performer had the option to stop and restart the tune after the train passed.  The trains became the source of many good jokes and a welcome relief from the steady stream of banjo jokes.

And the trains are still active
where they run all day and all night
Ask me, we were parked adjacent to the tracks!

Most of the weekend is spent with a series of competitions which become the show.  However, FOTMC always has a guest of honor, which usually means two people, and this year it was Erynn Marshall and Carl Jones.  Both Erynn and Carl are fun folks who join in jams or will chat with you on most any topic.  We were fortunate to see them perform once on Friday and twice on Saturday.  They are accomplished musicians with there own special styles, definitely old-time.

Erynn Marshall and Carl Jones
(promo photo from FOTMC.org)

Now, some individuals are serious and compete for recognition, others are sharing their talents for fun, while some blend the two perspectives. The reason to compete simply (or not so simply) depends on your musical state-of-mind. 

Jason, a budding old-time musician
practicing for the contest
he took first in both Beginning Banjo
and Beginning Fiddle

And, sometimes it depends on the competition whether it is serious or for-fun. Of course you must follow the rules to be a serious competitor but they are not difficult.

Bill competing in Beginning Banjo

However, learning the nuisances of the genre can be challenging.  You can't simply read the sheet music and expect to get it right.  And, for many tunes there is no sheet music... actually, most of the music was not written down until the second half of the 20th century... or to be more accurate from 1970 on. 

Bill sporting his third place ribbon
He took third in Banjo and Mandolin
Wonder which this is...

Music was passed down from one fiddler, banjo player, or singer to another.  The student might come to the master more than once to learn the tune and then take it home.  Sometimes, the student might forget part of the tune and in reconstructing the tune he/she would create a new own version.

Marg in the Banjo Contest

In any case, after a while you learn that each tune IS different and you learn to recognize the differences.  And that is what this weekend is about.  Variations and nuisances on a recognized old-time tune.  Yes, it is about mastery of the instrument and the style but even more on the knowledge of the genre and how the tune breathes (varies) as you play it.  Contrary to what some believe, Old-Time Music is an evolving style.

Marg the budding fiddler
Beginning Fiddle
where the kids played circles around me!

The Amazing Lake Louisa State Park

A visit to Lake Louisa State Park has been on my list for a long time. Finally we had the opportunity to visit for two days. First let me say, you need more than two days in this park! There is much to do and see in the park itself... hiking, bicycling, paddling the lakes, fishing, swimming, camping, birding, and a raft of other nature activities.

Lake Louisa
The largest of the 13 lakes

Early morning paddle on Dixie Lake

The park literature boasts 4,500 acres of wilderness which includes six lakes, two streams, 105 miles of shoreline, and 23 miles of trails of which 17 are rated multi-use  .Lake Louisa is a huge lake and the largest in a chain of 13 lakes.  The park boasts 11 distinct natural plant communities in the varied terrain.  

Rolling hills where oranges groves
once grew

 To give you an idea of the terrain, the park borders the eastern most edge of the Green Swamp (low and wet) and the northern edge of the Lake Wales Ridge (high, dry, rolling hills).

Sugar Sand trails leading towards Lake Louisa

The campground lies between Hammond Lake and Dixie Lake and I do mean between as it is a very short walk to either lake. If it takes you more than two minutes then you stopped to visit your neighbors.

Grasses gracing Dixie Lake
in the early morning

Hammond Lake
with mossy cypress and lily pads

Now, if the lakes don't interest you... look to the sky for osprey, red shouldered hawks, swallow-tailed kites, sandhill cranes, and other birds of prey. Don't want to look up, then study the trees and shrubs to find cardinals, robins, cat birds, mocking birds, wrens, warblers, sparrows, and other SBB (small brown birds).

A not too timid deer on the Big Creek trail

Lovely Swallowtail Kite
soaring high above the lakes and hills

OK, you want something different? From the campground there are two trail entrances, again with a two minute walk... unless you stop to chat. Both give you access to the 23 mile trail system where you can hike or bicycle these trails. Horses are allowed on the trails but I think you need another access point for horse entry.

A nice sandy but easy to ride trail

Big Creek
which borders the Big Creek Trail
and leads to Lake Louisa

How about a swim in Lake Louisa?
It would feel good after the hike!

The land is varied at the park, so expect everything from sugar sand and swamps to hilly meadows. Sometimes you would swear you are in the mountains and not in flat Florida. However, this part of Florida is hilly and quite unlike the coastal regions.

These hills beckon you to take a stroll

Geologically, this was a coastal region many years ago.  The changing environment left us with many lakes and sugar sand hills as the water receded.

Prairies and Meadows abound in this park

The recent history of the area and  park is rich, by recent I mean 1800-2000.  Summarized From the park website: In 1823, the area became part of the Seminole Indian Reservation by  the Treaty of Moultrie Creek.  It was not used by the Seminole Indians, no surprise if you consider the actions of the military and invasive whites.  

Invasive Lantana
Probably from earlier settlers

 So, in 1910, John and Louise Driggors Hammond settled most of the land surrounding Lake Louisa (does't say if they purchased the land).  They built a home, turpentine still, sawmill, shingle mill, school/church building, commissary, and worker's cabin. Products were shipped way steamboats and barge across Lake Louisa. 

Passion Flower

 By 1943, the Bronson family established orange groves and a cattle ranch on some of the property.  The park was purchased by the state in 1973 and opened to the public in 1977. Read the story and see old photos at https://www.floridastateparks.org/park-history/Lake-Louisa.

Lovely Prickly Pair Blossom

Exploring Oak Hammock Park - St. Augustine Beach

Yes, I do recall St. Augustine Beach before the development when open sand dunes lined the area from the Beach Road, A1A. to the Ocean.  To me those were the good old day, Versaggi Drive was the south most development until Crescent Beach.  However, it is all perspective because to my father the "good old days" were when the street car trolley ran past my great Granny Mamie's house near the light house.

St Augustine Lighthouse

I've wandered and explored the sand dunes for years but somehow missed this area with fresh or brackish water lakes and no ocean access.  Around 1990 I was a member of an environmental group in St. Johns County called Trees.  One of our projects was to protect this land but our many efforts failed and the adjoining section was developed.  So I was happy to learn that the City of St Augustine Beach finally purchased the remaining tract and developed the park. 

A wonderful memory of nature before development

It is now known as Oak Hammock Park and makes a delightful stroll through the hammock and through the swamp and dunes (on a boardwalk).  The boardwalk is necessary in most of the area due to the wet lands and to preserve the sand dunes.

The inland lake is quite large
Must be salty from the sand dunes
but the ocean does not feed the lake

The hammock is a term used in the southeastern United States for stands of trees, usually hardwood, that form an ecological island in a contrasting ecosystem. Hammocks grow on elevated areas, often just a few inches high, surrounded by wetlands that are too wet to support them. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammock_(ecology)) 

Marshy areas in the park

This perfectly describes the area... swampy and sand dunes with these lovely stands of oaks and maples.

Lovely established and new maples
this area must be soggy!

A hammock supports many types of flora and fauna.  As you can imagine it provides a haven for birds and small fish that would not survive without the special protection.  We were greeted by zebra butterflies, cat birds, and various woodpeckers that darted through the oaks, palmettos, and scrub.

Hammock with old oaks and palmettos

Venturing down the boardwalk we encountered a wood stork seeking dinner.  So we spent some time observing his successful technique.  

What is a good fishing spot?

The stork would locate a suitable area and lower his open beak in the water, as a trap.  Next one leg would be raised from the water, rotated to one side at an angle and lowered into the water.  

Wood stork searching for dinner

This was followed by a series of searching plunges into the mud and eventually an unsuspecting fish, frog, or other delight would be driven towards the open beak.  Chomp... another tasty morsel for dinner.

Notice the beak in the water ready
to grab whatever his fishing leg
scares up as he pokes the ground

Further down the boardwalk we found a delightful inland lake.  This is interesting because it does not appear to have any ocean access.  Fresh water ducks were busy splashing and playing in the water so one can only assume it was mostly fresh water.

Teal ducks in this lake
among the sand dunes

It is a short stroll through the park to the ocean but chocked full of interesting scenes, wild life, and scenes to ponder.  You will find it on A1A Beach Blvd, just north of the A1A and S3 intersection (aka Publix Plaza). 

Strolling through Twelve Mile Swamp Conservation Area - St.Augustine FL

One rainy Tuesday in March we met my cousins for lunch at Schooners.  They like to 'beat the crowd' by arriving around 11 AM which means you have a long afternoon for other adventures.  As always it was a treat to spend time with family at a locals restaurant.

Lovely white violet
a native of the swamp

As we returned to the car the skies started spitting rain again so we headed towards the Outlet Mall  in search of my new rain jacket.  Mine old jacket was wearing thin and leaking in light rain... this is never fun when you are spending hours outdoors. As most of you know, shopping is not a favorite pastime and malls are rarely breached.  But sometimes you have little recourse.  I've been looking for a replacement for some time and was not certain one would be located; however, this time it was a success.  Perhaps at this point I could no longer be picky and the bright orange jacket fit the bill.  Yes, I am now ready for adventures.

The paths are broad
which is good in a swamp
as you can usually find a dry footing.

On the return to town Bill said "I saw a hiking area."  The area was Twelve Mile Swamp Conservation Area.  The area is a total of 20,338 acres. The St. Johns Water Management District owns and manages 378 acres of the total.  This was the section we walked.

The sign that attracted
Bill's attention

From the parking area off SR 16 the kiosk promised a short walk and a few side trails.  (Conservation area map).  So, with my new rain jacket we headed into the area.  The area offered a nice walk for a rainy day and the broad roads offered dry footing in a swamp.

Beautiful tall pines line the swamp path

There were several pools of water but the broad Water Management roads allowed us to find a path through the dark, rich, muck.  Being spring, the ground was dotted with wild flowers which are always a treat to find.

Bachelor Buttons and Dollar Weed
in the mucky swamp

Considering the rain, we did not encounter many birds but did see the ever present Turkey Vultures, cardinals, and crows.  Now, we did happen on a few ibis in a pond and heard several Sand Hill Cranes migrating northward.

Swamp vegetation among the grass
Lush St. Augustine grass and dollar weed
mean it is wet here

Unfortunately, our water lands area rarely safe when it comes to growth and 'progress'.  Growing up I recall Twelve Mile Swamp Road north of town off US1 as a beautiful tree arched road.  In my late 30s the World Golf Village purchased surrounding land to build a Disney-esk housing development and widened the road.  It was a sad day when the two lane tree arched road was widened to four lanes and all the trees were cut away from the road.

Bachelor Buttons
amid the grass

It seems the county is investigating a 'belt-way' called SR313 that will once again bisect the Twelve Mile Swamp.  Luckily concerned citizens have banned together with an informative website Stop SR313 and online petition.  

Delicate undergrowth
This will not survive if SR 313 is built

The petition page states "Stop the extravagant waste of public funds and destruction of wetlands that would result from the State Road 313 project." Get informed and then decide if you should join the movement.

Anastasia State Park... Reprise

Yes we do visit Anastasia State Park in St. Augustine FL fairly frequently both as volunteers and visitors.  

Salt Run
Looking  north from the boardwalk

Why not, it is a beautiful park, a bicycle ride over the Bridge of Lions to the "old city", a bicycle ride to visit many friends and family, and simply a good place to hear the ocean roar.

Bridge of Lions
Bicycles must still ride with traffic
Usually people are courteous

View of town and docks from the bridge

And spending my entire life, up to college, living under the shadow of the lighthouse (left in the picture background) this is 'home' for me. Walking along the paths and trails allowed time to recall childhood adventures through the Salt Run hills.   

Wooded trails

Finding gopher holes let me know the tortoise population is recovering.  They were a popular protein source for my ancestors, probably because they were plentiful and easy to capture... but not easy to clean or prepare.  However, the biggest threat proved to be a lack of habitat due to human encroachment.

Now this is a gopher hole!

Spending time by the water is always special and each morning my goal was a walk on the beach, woods, or old coquina quarry.  It was somewhat nostalgic as I grew up clamming in Salt Run, body surfing along the beach, pulling the mullet sack behind my dad as he fished in the sloughs.  Towards the end of our stay we walked the entire beach to the jetty around 8 miles round-trip.

March winds blowing
sand from the dunes to the ocean
Mother Nature will sculpt the land!

This was March which has a reputation for being windy and often damp and foggy.  The coast did not disappoint as it provided a wide variety of weather during our stay... temperatures from 38 to 94 but not all on the same day, bright sun to heavy rains, dead air to wind that felled several old branches, and clear moon lit nights to pea soup foggy mornings.

Damp road rising over the hill
Yes it did rain several days

Exit from our campsite loop
on a beautiful day

And spring means new growth with flowers, seeds, and pollen.  This is the time of year the budding oak leaves push out the old brown leaves from the previous year.  The oaks bloom and every thing is covered with brown leaves along with yellow and green pollen.

Spring time Oak Flowers
Lovely to view

Spring time ferns

Now, we had a lovely campsite at the park.  The back yard trails led to the campfire circle/amphitheater which allowed several interesting walks with our cats. 

Our back yard

And the site was wide enough for Bill to build fires and play the banjo.

Bill playing our new
Mike Coleman banjo
at the campsite