February 19th: Visiting Florida State Parks in Southwest Florida

Southwest Florida has a wealth of natural areas from city and county parks to state parks and water management preserves. One might think, “Wow, there are so many lands off the tax roles!” But on the other hand you could say, “We are preserving land for the real Florida."  More important, we are preserving natural lands that feed the Florida Aquifer (good read on the aquifer) in hopes of providing the most important resource, water.

Alafia River State Park

One sunny February day we visited three state parks, yes it was a brief stop in each park. This whirlwind trip was not planned but simply happened. We north early in the day to explore Alafia River State Park near Lithia. This park is a reclamation project; in the first part of the 20^th century the area was mined for phosphate at the Lonestar Mine.  In 1996, after the land had yielded it's treasures, Cytec Industries donated the land to the state. 

The park is a treasure trove for the off-road bicyclist with miles of challenging trails where the terrine has been sculpted from the years of phosphate mining. Local bicycle clubs and enthusiasts help build and maintain these trails for all to enjoy. Of course not everyone is a cyclist so there are over 20 miles of hiking and equestrian trails to explore. For those who canoe and kayak there is the Alafia River (recall the name of this park is Alafia River State Park); unfortunately, we did not bring the canoe on this trip.

Our first stop was the campground where we visited with the camp hosts as we admired the spacious sites and new bath house. Is it obvious we have worked as camp hosts? Then we headed to the hiking/bicycling area with the hopes of walking the cat. Well, it was a busy day at the park with many cyclists so the cat waited while we walked a few of the trails that wound along the crooked river, up the old mining mounds, and through the trenches. Mining can give the area a facelift that is not easy to remove. There were no equestrians on this Monday making the horse trails perfect for walking the cat. As expected these trails were wider with fewer tight turns and quick rises/drops, those off-road cyclists can be daring! The scenery was expansive in this area with gentle lakes, shore birds, song birds, and hawks. We need to return for another look!

Little Manatee River State Park
The Little Manatee River

Heading towards home we stopped at Little Manatee River State Park near Wimauma, another jewel in the crown of parks. Saying the area is pine, palmetto, and sand with a river running through it is a fair description but not the whole story. You have the feel of Florida prairie and expect to see a few cracker cows hiding scattered on the land. The scene is right but there are no cows in the park. The river is beautiful as it winds under stately oak trees that are draped with Spanish moss. This is a river well worth a paddle. 

Nature Trail

The nature trails traverse the scrub allowing views of the river and ample opportunities for photography.

Ferns along the nature trail

Again we visited the campground and were impressed with the spaciousness and cleanliness. This is a campground to highlight on your map as it would be comfortable, scenic, and offer easy access to hiking, canoeing, and fishing.

Lake Manatee Scrub

It was getting late and time to head home along the back roads where we saw a few Mexican diners and fish houses. We stopped at a gas station for a drink and a snack. Lo and behold, there was a red trailer parked on the side. Could this be a taco stand? We were in luck, no menu only burritos, quesadas, and tacos. Bill ordered a burrito and quesada while I went inside for a drink. A few minutes later we were heading towards the picnic area at Lake Manatee State Park, our third park for the day... unless you count our home park of Myakka River State Park.

Lake Manatee State Park
Lake & Picnic Area

It was late so this was a short stop to admire the lake, have a picnic, walk the cat, and talk to other visitors. We dined near the lake under the moss draped live oaks, quite picturesque. The sun was getting low and the lake was beautiful in the fading light. This is smaller park is located near Bradenton and dominated by the lake that serves as a reservoir for Manatee and Sarasota counties.

Lake Manatee Oaks

Did we see experience any of the parks in depth? No and it was not our intention, today was an exploration trip to learn a bit more about the area.

January-February 2014: Deep Hole, Myakka River State Park

NOTE:  To date we have made four trips to Deep Hole this season.  That's four trips in six weeks.  Guess we are due for another journey...

It seems "the hike to do" at Myakka River State Park is the hike to Deep Hole.  Guess this has always been the case but recent articles in the Sarasota Herald-Tribune and quoted on the Internet simply enhanced the draw.  

Bill on that chilly January 2014 morning

Why not make this one of our first hikes at the park.  Early one chilly January morning we obtained a permit from the Ranger Station and headed out.  Now it is a long walk, 5 miles round trip, and mostly in the sun which is perfect for a cool day in early January.  

Typical scrub terrain
on the trip to Deep Hole

The terrain felt like home looking across a sea of palmetto, grasses, and scrub.  We ambled over the sandy and grass covered road gazing at turkey vultures and black vultures soaring overhead in the clear blue sky.  Sometimes we were treated with a small song bird or Red Shouldered Hawk sitting in the Spanish moss draped oaks or a cabbage palm.  After walking two plus miles we found ourselves at the Lower Lake and Deep Hole, which were joined by a trickle of water.  

Lower Lake Myakka
and Deep Hole

Being a cool day the alligators were scarce; however, a few were on duty to give us a feeling of the potential on a hot day. So we returned but this time walking a side trail which presented opportunities for additional scenic lake views.  I should note there are multiple blueberry-like shrubs which usually produce editable berries with little flavor.  Looking closely you can find a few early January flower

Having hiked to the Lower Lake and Deep Hole from the west side, it was time to venture down Cabin Creek Lane on the east side of the river and lake.  Ranger Teresa Good had mentioned the beauty of this trail and she was correct, it is one of the prettiest trails in the park.

Cabin Lane

Strange how simply walking the west side of the lake can be so different from the east.  There are more trees and hammocks on the west side along with different scrub. 

Cabin Creek Scrub 

From this side of the lake it is difficult to walk on the lake shore due to the stretch of grass and bog; however, the views are fantastic.  And, we were treated to a huge flock of white pelican on the lake.  Our best guess was 500 or so.

Cabin Creek Trail view

Our third trip to Deep Hole and the Lower Lake occurred as part of a park orientation trip.  Volunteer Jim Watson spends the better part of a day taking new volunteers to remote areas of the park.  During the trip he shares information gained from 18 years with the park which includes history, ecology, and observations.  His tours are educational, relaxing, and fun.

Jim Watson's Trip on Ranch House Road

Being winter the water levels in the river are lower so a canoe trip down the Myakka River was not reasonable.  Then in early February after several days of rain the water levels rose, it was time to canoe down the river to the Lower Lake and Deep Hole.  

Time for another trip to the area, our fourth but perhaps not last for this season.  However, not wanting to drop my phone/camera into the water the included photos were taken at other times.

Our trusty canoe ready for action!

Now, it  was a warm day and the numerous alligators on the banks of this narrow passage along the river had my adrenalin flowing.  Consider the feeling when a huge gator slides off the bank and disappears under the canoe.  In truth, the gator simply wanted to be invisible and out of our way but still it was unsettling.  

Accurate photo compliments of
http://www.ticketsarasota.com

We arrived safely back home after a lovely paddle with new friends through clear waters on a sunny clear day.  The highlight, other than friendship, was the opportunity to see an eagle land in the water and then ascend with a fish in it's talons.  It was magic.  It was a magic trip.

February 18, 2014: Dawn at Myakka River State Park

NOTE:  This posting is out of sequence but I wanted to capture the moment.

Moon over Myakka

Dawn is a time of renewal when yesterday is but a memory and today holds great promise. About 6:30 AM I stepped out of the trailer for a little walk and knew this was a magic morning. The moon is just past full, the air is still cool (50 degrees) as the days lengthen.

Trail to the river

As with any natural area if you are quiet, listen carefully, and observe your surroundings nature unfolds to thrill and amaze. Now, I can't say this morning was any more remarkable than other mornings but it was different with the promise of an early spring.

Vulture Tree

The chirping of small birds were the first sounds to attract my attention, I suspected  Sparrows, Warblers, and Wrens in this mix. Above them came several gobbles from the WildTurkeys, this is a distinctive sound which seemed to come from the river. Rambling on towards the river came the songs of Cardinals and Robins, the coo of Mourning Doves, and the feather noise from the Vultures. There are both Turkey Vultures and Black Vultures in the park that co-exist either from companionship or necessity. The vultures roost in a tree near the log pavilion and offer quite a show any time of day.

Flighty Vulture

En-route to the vulture tree I became aware of owls, both the Barred Owl and the Great Horned Owl were voicing their presence. While studying the vulture tree and observing their flighty activity a Red Shouldered Hawk called and flew across the road.

From the river I again heard the turkeys joined by Osprey seeking prey and recalled the large snakes that had been hit on the road in previous days which provided food for the raptors. As I crossed the grass towards the river the Sandhill Cranes called as they flew overhead,. The first glimpse of the river revealed a layer of mist due to the water/air temperature difference resulting in a mystic cast. 

Crane in the mist

A Wood Stork glided down the river as I approached and the Wild Turkeys called from the far bank. The show was far from over as several Great White Egrets landed on the far side hoping to catch a few fish for breakfast. 

Purple Sage

It was time to depart for home and my breakfast but there was more to see and hear. A pesky crow chattered above me over the chirps of smaller birds and the Barred Owl hoot. Rounding the corner towards home I was treated to a purple sage, 

Armadillo Rooting

armadillo rooting on the path, 

and much more than can be told here. 

Myakka River

Not bad for a 20 minute walk at dawn on the Myakka River.

January 2014: Myakka River State Park, Learning the Park

We started a new year at a new state park, Myakka River State Park.  The last time we passed through the park it river had overflowed the banks and the road was barely passable.  However, that was late summer and this is winter the 'dry' season so the roads are dry.

View from the Canopy Walk

With 37,000 acres the park offers multiple opportunities to view wildlife, hike, bicycle, fish, and canoe.   One of our first trips was the nature trail and canopy walkway (above).  On the nature trail we found a Peninsula Cooter laying her eggs in the middle of the trail!

Florida Peninsula Cooter

Now Bill loves to fish and the waters here are infested with Tilapia, you know that other white fish.  But all is not perfect with this new resident in the park is considered an invasive species so catching it is encouraged.  According to the local story, the dam at a farm up-river gave way during one wet season and the tilapia escaped into the river eventually displacing many of the native bass, brim, and spot.  Now the birds and humans seem to enjoy the tilapia but there are too many small fish in the river and perhaps too many fish period.  Regardless, the fish are good fried, broiled, baked, stewed, marinated, and raw (according to the herons).

Bill fishing at Alligator Point

If Bill's love is fishing, mine is bicycling so early on I began to explore the back country on bicycle.  As we often work different shifts there is time to explore the 39 miles (give or take a few) of trails.

Ranch House Road

The back roads are beautiful, sometimes sandy, often grassy, and rarely shady.  Remember, this is the Myakka Dry Prairie.  However, there are occasional man-made improvements that can put a damper on your ride, consider the flood control 'ditch' below. 

A unmarked water hazard
called Flood Control

 I happened on this but luckily had a 5 minute warning from cyclists who had just crossed this in the other direction.  They carried their shoes and bicycles... being a bit less brave I removed my socks but walked through in my shoes and carried the socks and bicycle.  The water was above my knees and the distance about 30'.  

Warm day for cycling the back country

Still, it was a hot day so the wade felt good and luckily there were no gators or snakes who wanted to join my party.  The remainder of the ride back to our new home in the Volunteer Village was scenic and uneventful.  

Slippery the cat
Relaxing at home
After MY bicycle ride

Ringing out 2013 in Sarasota County

It was by accident we were able to reserve a campsite at Oscar Scherer State Park for Dec 30, 2013.  Accident?  Yes, I mistakenly reserved a pet restricted site and luckily they had a pet-friendly site for one night, a cancellation.  Most state parks allow pets at all campsites so this was not expected; however, the sites are on the river where there are ample alligators which favor dogs so pets are not allowed on the river.  Once settled we took a hike in the back woods where we encountered the illusive Florida Scrub Jay.  

One of two we saw in the scrub!

This was a true treat as I had not seen the scrub jay since I was a young whipper-snapper living in St. Augustine.  And in our rewrite of Woody Guthrie's This Land is Your Land which is reported to be one of the most popular folk songs.  Well, we needed a Florida song for Nature-Scape, an Earth Day celebration, at John D. MacArthur State Park back around 2000 so the lyrics were modified for Florida and the Scrub Jay has been honored in the modified lyrics.  

As camping spaces are difficult to come by on holidays and I had not booked in advance we were 'homeless' on New Year's Eve.  Luckily a friend in Sarasota came to our rescue and said, "You can park at my house, there is plenty of space."  And she said, "Come to the New Year's Eve party at WSLR."  

How could we refuse, we reserved tickets for the celebration and after settling in at Jean's house headed to the party.  She was correct, it was a fine way to spend New Year's Eve with three different bands, fun attendees, a booth to create hats and other celebration decorations, and a great food wagon.  The event was held downtown Sarasota at the Fogartyville Cafe.  

Fogartyville but not New Year's Eve

Thus began our introduction to Sarasota County
 which seemed to foretell an interesting and rewarding three months.

Note: Once again we must say "Thank you" to Jean for her continued hospitality and friendship.

Palm Beach County in the twilight days of December 2013

Yes, we did make the most of December 2013 using a circuitous route visit family and friends en-route to our next volunteer assignment, Myakka River State Park.  Bear in mind that we are traveling through South Florida in the winter which is snow bird mecca.  You know snow birds, the folks that travel south in the winter to avoid the cold but I really can't blame them and now that we are full-timers... well we are part of that crew.

The first stop was Jonathan Dickinson State Park where we found a vacancy for one night and fortunate to do that.  JD is another 'real Florida' park, meaning natural beauty with rivers, marshes, pines, deer, turkey, and similar wildlife.  JD is actually in Martin County but who is paying attention?

A foggy day on the 'mountain' in JD

After parking the trailer we took an early evening bicycle ride, sunset is early in December, where we happened across a few deer.  The next morning we headed out in the canoe on a section of the Loxahatchee River we never canoed while living in the area.  As you can surmise, this was not our first trip to the park, while living in Palm Beach County we managed several trips to bicycle, canoe, and hike the park.

As sites were not readily available at JD we left after the canoe ride and drove to John Prince Park in Lake Worth which is a county park.  This was an interesting stop because our house in Lantana was a short bicycle ride from the park and we often cycled the park and campground (checking the RV's before we purchased ours).  Here we spent several nights to accommodate the reasons for our journey...  

Easy access to the lake, airport, shopping, and friends

And, there were several reasons to visit our last 'stomping grounds', all revolved around friendship.  We wanted to see old neighbors (several were home), attend the Log Cabin sing at Tropical Sands Christian Church, join in Elsa Jennings' centennial birthday party,

Elsa - Centennial Queen

 and catch up with Marg's band mates and other buddies.

The Pick-It Sisters
Always ready to party!

Sometimes you wonder why you move on... but then the new experiences let you know it is a trade-off.  Sometimes for better and sometimes for worse.

So, a big "thank you" to all the wonderful people in our lives, those we currently treasure and those we have yet to meet.

December at Long Point Park, Archie Carr & Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuges

We were in Brevard County, you know Bill's old stomping grounds, for a total of eleven days.  After five at Wickham Park we decided to explore the beach areas and moved to Long Point Park for a few days.  Bill tried to explain how the park was an island surrounded by creeks and the Indian River Lagoon which is part of the Intracoastal Waterway.  It was hard for me to envision so we simply had to make the trip.

Yes the 84 acre park is an island surrounded by mangroves and comes with no-seeums around dawn and dusk unless there is a brisk breeze.  

From our campsite...
canoe launch with mangroves

Yes the park offered easy water access, beautiful sunsets, friendly campers, ...

Home sweet home at Long Point Park

... and a short bicycle ride to the Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge and Sebastian Inlet State Park.  A longer bicycle ride takes you over the State Park and to Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge.

Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge

The Archie Carr National Wildlife Refuge, mostly beach front, stretches across 20.5 miles between Melbourne Beach and Wabasso Beach along Florida's east coast. The refuge was established in 1991 and was named after the late Dr. Archie Carr, Jr., in honor of his extraordinary contribution to sea turtle conservation. The Refuge is a direct result of Dr. Carr bringing attention to the world's declining turtle populations due to over-exploitation and loss of safe habitat. Now, my father Fred Chauvin became friends with  Dr. Archie Carr, Jr. and his son Archie Carr III through their common interest in Florida shells and sea turtles.  So, as an adult I was often treated to stories about Fred's shelling adventures with the Carr's and this made the seashore special.

Baby Man-o-War on the beach...

Unfortunately, it was too cold for us to swim in the ocean but perfect for beach walking. However, considering the number of Man-o-War on the beach this may have been a blessing.

Trail along Long Point Park

Now, I keep getting side-tracked but I did want to clarify the Intracoastal Waterway.  This is a 3,000-mile waterway along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of the United States. Some lengths consist of natural inlets, salt-water rivers, bays, and sounds; others are artificial canals. It provides a navigable route along its length without many of the hazards of travel on the open sea.  And a list of the waterways comprising the Intracoastal in Florida can be found on Wikipedia.  Just wanted to clear up a bit of the mystery.

Trail along the mangrove lined waterway

As mentioned you can bicycle to Sebastian Inlet State Park on the blacktop (road) or you can take some of the trails (bicycle or hike) through the preserves. 

Trail between Long Point and Sebastian Inlet

Let me end with a bit about Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge, the first refuge which was established in 1903 by President Teddy Roosevelt.  Not only is the history interesting but there is a long boardwalk that commemorates the 100th anniversary of the park with a plank for each existing National Wildlife Refuge.  Thank you to the many pioneers who started the effort to save our wildlife.

Pelican Island Mangrove Trail

Pioneer who tended the refuge.