Guana – Tolomato – Matanzas National Estuary

A cool front passed through north Florida on October 3-4 which left us with one gorgeous weekend. And, we had the weekend free!

Clear perfect day to explore
Nature at Guana

Saturday morning was spent at the Farmer's Market playing in the string band jam and the urge to explore outside the park. So, Sunday we donned the hiking boots, packed the bicycles and binoculars in the truck, and headed to Guana.  The current official name is Guana Tolomato Matanzas National Estuarine Research Reserve (GTM Research Reserve). 

Cycling on the multi-use trail

The entire preserve encompasses 73,352 acres and occupies certain coastal areas from south of the City of Jacksonville (Duval County) south through St. Johns County and Flagler County.  The area we chose to explore is sandwiched between the Atlantic Ocean and the North River along highway A1A mid-way between Vilano Beach and Ponte Vedra.  In my youth we called it "The Guanas". 

North River

 This once isolated and little used area became popular after A1A was built along the coast with smaller residences being built at Vilano and exclusive homes built at Ponte Vedra. Luckily the area was preserved for us as the state and US government acquired tracts of land.

An amazing area
Florida & US shared management

There are historical, recreational, and natural reasons to preserve the area. The area preserves endangered species: 48 animals and 8 plants. And, it is a spawning ground for the North American Right Whale in addition to sea turtles, crabs, and fish.

From:
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gtm/education/center.htm

A learning center has been built on the south end of the park to accommodate park visitors, k-12 school educational outings, and university research.  Additionally, the western section has slowly developed into well-marked trails, board walks, and an observation tower.

Boardwalk through the marsh

To think this all started with native American trails, and old logging and hunting roads.  Natives began to use the area 4000-6000 years ago taking advantage of the inlets and streams for fishing, hunting, and trapping.  The island was temperate thus plots were planted for gardens.  

Consider who inhabited this area

In the mid-1700 the British acquired Florida and issued 35 land grants for agricultural endeavors which resulted in livestock, including pigs and hogs, inhabitating the island.  When the British left some Minorcans purchased plots for farms and homesteads.  And in the Florida Land Grab of the 1920s it became a real estate mecca which crashed in 1929.  Eventually the State of Florida acquired the land and the remaining trails and roads have been improved for our use today. (http://myfwc.com/viewing/recreation/wmas/lead/guana-river/history/)

Bill studies trail map

While hiking or bicycling the trails you may encounter the native pigs which have survived from the Spanish inhabitants in 1565-1845. Less friendly are the wild boars which later entered the picture. 

Interesting Fungi

 There are deer that shyly roam the area along with red-shouldered hawks, osprey, wading birds, pileated woodpeckers, downy woodpeckers, among other song birds.

Deer observing the park patrons

My childhood memories of the area include crabbing in the Guana Lake for blue crab. The perfect crab bait, for us, were chicken necks and wings which were safely stored in the freezer awaiting the next Saturday crabbing trip. My father would load the car with traps, hand-lines, chairs, and the all important bait. My grandmother would pack a lunch and drinks into the picnic basket. Then we would make the long 20 mile trip to Guana for crabs.   

Guana Lake
Still popular for crabbing and fishing