Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Harpers Ferry: A town with a long history

About thirty years ago I visited Harpers Ferry arriving after the park, Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, had closed.  My recollection was a fairy-tale history rich village that I needed to revisit.  So here we were at 10 AM driving past the park entrance without any specific time table for the day... yes, it was time to stop.

Entry Kiosk
We found a parking space for the truck and trailer.  After walking the cats we left them in the trailer with water, food, a litter box, fans running and vents open. Everyone was set for a few hours of touring.  
OK, we walked... you can go tour
The first stop was the National Park Visitor Center where we hoped to orient ourselves.  The center contained displays, park literature, and most important, park rangers.  The park is huge with four different areas covering three states. This has been an important trade and battle area for centuries and we are fortunate the National Park Service has preserved this history for us.  We opted to tour only Harpers Ferry and from the visitor center there are two routes to the "Lower Town", you can walk the 1.6 mile trail or take a shuttle.  
Visitor Center
The ranger suggested we board the next shuttle and walk the trails around the town.  Taking his advice, we boarded the bus and went back in time as the recorded narrative set the stage for the historical Harpers Ferry. We exited the bus knowing we were stepping back into a pre-Civil War Harpers Ferry.vb b
John Brown's Fort
Relocated many times
but now 150 feet from the original location
History Note:  Many people associate Harpers Ferry and John Brown's Raid.  A quick overview from http://www.history.com/topics/harpers-ferry
In October 1859, the U.S. military arsenal at Harpers Ferry was the target of an assault by an armed band of abolitionists led by John Brown (1800-59). (Originally part of Virginia, Harpers Ferry is located in the eastern panhandle of West Virginia near the convergence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers.) The raid was intended to be the first stage in an elaborate plan to establish an independent stronghold of freed slaves in the mountains of Maryland and Virginia. Brown was captured during the raid and later convicted of treason and hanged, but the raid inflamed white Southern fears of slave rebellions and increased the mounting tension between Northern and Southern states before the American Civil War (1861-65).
Nestled at the river mouth
far below the surrounding hills
 Harpers Ferry is at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers so naturally it has always been an important site for transportation and commerce.  There is evidence of human occupation for over 10,000 years; however, as with most of the US, history usually starts with the arrival of the British.  (Can't resist the dig being from Florida.)
Many layers of building
Unraveled by the historians and archaeologists
The first recorded  ferry service across the river in 1747 by Robert Harper, thus the name Harpers Ferry.  The town is in West Virginia with Maryland just across the Potomac and Virginia across the Shenandoah.  
Wild strawberries abound
but lacking in flavor
Considering the location, it was the scene of many historical firsts, visits, and battle scenes.  By the early 1800s Harpers Ferry was a thriving industrial hub with rifle-musket manufacturing, milling, and trade.  The rail roads and steamships wanted more access thus it was home to the B & O Railroad and the M & O Canal.   
Study in a preserved house
Exiting the bus you step into the historical park and the 1800s. Walking down the street are many shops, a boarding house, and a few residences.  All reflect a time period of the early 1800s with many shop owners dressed in period clothing.  The historical characters are mostly park staff and well versed in the life style.
Welcome to the General Store!
The displays, kiosks, videos, and visitor friendly layout allow you to explore on your own and experience an earlier time. Should you want more information or a group experience, join one of the formal tours led  by the park staff.
Back streets are still 1800
Now, there are two parts to the town, the National Park historic section and the private town with residences and businesses.  After touring the old town we ventured to the private section which contains additional shops, inns, and resturants.  A short walk found wonderful aromas coming from an inn that is also a restaurant.  The staff is attired in period dress, the building reflects the 1800s as does the menu.  
Appropriate meal
Chicken Pot Pie & Greens with ham
We ordered Chicken Pot Pie, Greens and Ham, along with Peach Cobbler.  All items were freshly made from scratch and quite tasty.
Lunch at the inn with Bill
It was now time to return to the visitor center and continue our trip.  The option of hiking back was appealing especially as over one mile would be on the Appalachian Trail.  
Appalachian Trail
rowards the Visitor Center
It was a pleasant return trip with scenic views of the hills and river.  Along the way we encountered other hikers, turtles, birds, and the opportunity to return to the 21st century gradually.
Turtle on the Shenandoah

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